|
|
Go to page 1~2 [Next] | ||||||||||
ShawnB Special user 728 Posts |
Hello all...
So I am attempting to create some soft morgans, for the second time thru. The first time I was sucsessfull, however in certain light I can see scratches from sanding the coins.... In an attempt to avoid this problem, I bought 1000 grit (wet) sand paper.. And allthough the scrathces are far less noticable.. they are still present. I would love to avoid this at any cost... ( I spent $100 on morgans today and visited 3 of my local coin shops) I really don't want to be dissapointed a second time thru... I know Schoolcraft would have probibly made me a set and they would have come out perfect... But its to late for that... So I would love the advice of anyone who has doner this sucsessfully.. thank you. Shawn.
Shawn.
|
|||||||||
Daegs Inner circle USA 4291 Posts |
Hmm... do a search, I had a couple post on this as well as a topic solely on softening and aging morgans...
Firstly, scratches are normal on a coin... if you want to polish them (make like mirror), then that is possible, but you'll need to ramp up the grit in order, you can't just jump to 1000 as it won't get many of the deeper scratches out.(walmart carries 1500 and 2000 too). The highest grit I am using is a 320 grit fiberous type attachment for a dremel, and my coins are coming out fine in terms of scratches and finish.... |
|||||||||
ShawnB Special user 728 Posts |
Hey Daegs..
I did search and saw many posts ou there including yours... However I don't recall coming across one that deals with scratches.. I do know scratches are normal.. But these are un-natrual looking, they appear as if they came from sanding the coins... They are minor but none the less not what I'm looking for.. Also I'm not jumping up the grit... I am only using 1000 grit, I'm going by hand slowy... I want these to be perfect... I'm just wondering if anyone has been sucsesfull in getting the surface scratches completely out thru buffing or any other means... And if so.. What exsactly was the proceedure / product that they used... Thanks for your post... I do appreciate the help.. Shawn
Shawn.
|
|||||||||
SDR Elite user 430 Posts |
Sand the coins down to how you want. Then, get a four way nail buffer, start using the coarest side first and buff the coin going down through the grades to the lightest. I found this to work great in removing the grains.
|
|||||||||
ShawnB Special user 728 Posts |
Awsome!!!
Thanks for the advice... I was thing I could get one at a hardware store.. until my girlfriend informed me it probibly wasn't "that kinda buffer" Looks like I will be visting CVS instead... Thanks for the advice... Does anyone have advice on polish? What brand? Where to get it? And will it effect the fact that I used BL**** to age the coin? Thanks again. Shawn.
Shawn.
|
|||||||||
tedski Special user New Jersey 792 Posts |
The last step in the polishing process is using jewlers rouge and a buffing wheel. The compound is also known as tripoli. However, once completed, you will have coins that look like mirrors. You may like that, or want to bleach the coins to darken them for contrast. Then you will have to polish the bleached high spots.
I've done this, it is a royal pain in the ***. I recommend you just by very worn coins and work them in. Just an opinion......... |
|||||||||
Brian Roberts Regular user Georgia 200 Posts |
I have sanded a few coins, attempting to soften them; slight scratches showed up in certain lighting conditions similar to what you have described. The method that I stumbled across to get rid of the scratches and return the coin to a normal worn look is as follows; after all the fine grit sanding has been finsihed, rub the coins surface on paper with a slight tooth to it; watercolour paper works well. You will, after a lot of rubbing end up with a buffed surface and the paper should have marks on it from the silver. The surface matches a worn coin quite well and seems to get rid of most scratches. This is assuming you've used a very fine grit, wet sand paper.
Best of luck, I know it can be a lot of work. Brian |
|||||||||
ShawnB Special user 728 Posts |
Thanks Brian... I will try that...
Shawn.
|
|||||||||
Pete Biro 1933 - 2018 18558 Posts |
OR... if you want quiet... Casino Poker Chips. Porper is creating a full line of gaffs with chips.
STAY TOONED... @ www.pete-biro.com
|
|||||||||
ShawnB Special user 728 Posts |
Interesting idea...
When are they planned to come out?
Shawn.
|
|||||||||
Mad Jake Inner circle All the voices in my head helped me make 2200 Posts |
If you use tripoli, be very careful on silver. Silver is of course soft, and depending on the brand of tripoli the final results can vary widely. There are polishing compounds that you can get at Lowe's hardware that are specifically for gold/silver/platinum, use one of these after your sanding at the lowest speed possible on your buffer.
Jake
Licensed Steve Dusheck Manufacturer and distributor visit www.airshipmagic.com
|
|||||||||
tedski Special user New Jersey 792 Posts |
Jake is correct about using Tripoli.....I had some expert assistance when I used various compounds... I still say buy worn coins to begin with- if you really have to work them a lot, I'd say your ruining a good coin - IMHO
|
|||||||||
Cpontz Special user Daupin PA 553 Posts |
I told my brother I wanted some "soft" coins for Christmas. He couldn't find any around his area so he tried to "grind" the face and reverse off of dollar coin. It ended up a totally mutilated coin where you could see nothing but the grinding marks. I appreciated the effort though and worked with the coin several times. Simple stuff like the Bobo switch, but it has been very effective.
Craig |
|||||||||
reese Inner circle of Hell 1332 Posts |
Seriously, don't waste the time to create soft coins. You can easily find soft morgans on the net. They are worth the search.
Tim |
|||||||||
ShawnB Special user 728 Posts |
The problem isn't that I can't find them.... I have a shoebox full...
The problem is they are not all the same wear.. They all do not have the same amount of age to them... I wan't a set of morgans that look as close to identical to eachother as possible.. I have allready invested the time and energy to get them all worn and aged the same.. I just want to remove the scraches... Thank you for your comment though reese...
Shawn.
|
|||||||||
bobn3 Special user Wichita, KS 718 Posts |
Most coin shops have these. I found some that were fairly inexpensive.
Bob Phillips |
|||||||||
wunceaponatime Loyal user 280 Posts |
I thinks it's a lot of effort making coins "soft" by any abrasion technique. You can get these at coin shops at almost melt down prices. Look on Ebay and do a search of "US silver dollars, circulated."
|
|||||||||
Rindfleisch Special user New Jersey 502 Posts |
I have become an expert at this!!!
Caution ****This process is not intended for children**** Caution 1. Buy a diamond stone for sharpening knives. Place the coin on the stone(really not a stone but a block of metal) and slide it on the surface in figure eight patterns. This will keep it even and not wear one side more then the other. 2. Purchase a very thin file at home depot. The one that I use is half rounded on one side. I use this to re-mill the edges (this is not going to come out like what Jamie Schoolcraft or Todd Lassen can provide but it does the trick (ha ha I said trick). 3. Use Extra Fine (or finishing ) grade steel wool. Go over the coin with figure eight patterns. Now to darken or age (Fake Patina) 4. Purchase Potassium Sulfate (Liver of Sulpher) Checkout Postapple Scientific. You want the type in rock (or Lump) form. 5. Let the tap water run as hot as it can into a bowl and place the coins in there to heat them up. 6. In another jar add extremely hot water and a few rocks of the Liver of Sulpher. Stir the solution until the rocks are dissolved. the liquid should have a dark yellow appearance. You can also use cold water but the heat brings about a better effect on the coins. You should do this in a well ventilated room and be prepared it smells like rotten eggs! I also recommend you use rubber gloves. 7. Depending on what degree of darken will determine how much liver of sulpher and how long you keep the coins in there. To stop the oxidation process ( it is really not oxidizing the metal but that’s what they call it) run the coins over water. I like to bring my coins to a gun metal look (completely dark) 8. Dry them with a clothe or paper towel. there’s two ways you can go now either a dull patina look (looks like the real thing)or a shiny patina look (real classy - this is what I do). 9a. to get a dull look use the finishing steel wool and very lightly do figure eights over the coin to the desired dullness. My preference is to keep it as dark as possible because by handling the coins on a regular basis will bring out the natural color of the coin. 9b. to make the coins shiny but still have the dark patina highlights I use a product called Miracle Clothe; it’s awesome!! I take the coin and place it on the clothe and do some figure eights. Don't go too crazy here just a few passes. it still should look very dark. 9b2. Take a paper towel and buff up the coin. The coin will be given a wonderful shine but there will still be some dark and grey areas as highlights on the coin. 10. You may want to go over the edges with either the steel wool or the miracle clothe so the edged don’t look so dark or Black. So why do coins go hard? When I refer to hard I mean that they make noise when they scrape across each other. This is caused by a raised point somewhere on the surface. This is usually caused by the coin being dropped on its edge on a solid surface. All it takes is one drop and the coin becomes hard. To get the coin soft again go over it with the diamond stone. You may need to go over it a few times with the wool but if you loose the patina then you’ll have to repeat the whole process. I hope this helps. Joe Rindfleisch
check me out on facebook #MAGICTOTD
|
|||||||||
Rindfleisch Special user New Jersey 502 Posts |
Just for the record all my techniques have been performed on my barber halves.
Joe Rindfleisch
check me out on facebook #MAGICTOTD
|
|||||||||
Daegs Inner circle USA 4291 Posts |
Ditto what Joe has said... I'm not sure of the chemicals but my stuff smells the same so its probably very similer
diamond stone is key... personally I like my dremel for finishing rather than steel wool(there are progressive "buffs" for dremel that wont harm the coin but do a great job of giving it an even clean texture/appearence) I also like the 3M 320grit "fine" sanding sponge, it works well for doing just the high details and getting a good look after you've aged them(I havent used steel wool in any of my efforts so I cant comment... sanding sponge and dremel have been good to me though) |
|||||||||
The Magic Cafe Forum Index » » Nothing up my sleeve... » » Creating Soft Morgans (Problem) (0 Likes) | ||||||||||
Go to page 1~2 [Next] |
[ Top of Page ] |
All content & postings Copyright © 2001-2024 Steve Brooks. All Rights Reserved. This page was created in 0.03 seconds requiring 5 database queries. |
The views and comments expressed on The Magic Café are not necessarily those of The Magic Café, Steve Brooks, or Steve Brooks Magic. > Privacy Statement < |