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Topic: Protesting Doves! Help!
Message: Posted by: Jeff Jenson (Jan 30, 2005 11:45PM)
Hey there,

I'm new to dove magic and I got 2 Ringneck Doves back in December. One is male and the other is female and I'm having trouble training both. I'm trying to teach the male to get into a dove holder so I can use him for a candle to dove or what ever else, but his problem is that he doesn’t like to be held from the top or be confined.

The female just doesn't want to perch on my finger. Every time I start to get her out of the cage she flies back to the perch, so I have to grab her from the top of her body to get her out. After I get her out I perch her on my finger but she flies away and lands somewhere else, but when I walk over to her and try to get her to perch on my finger again she flies away.

The last problem I'm having with the doves is that when I have one dove out of the cage and try to work with it they fly away and go back to the cage to try and rejoin with the other one. It's even the same problem when I have them both out, if one gets away and flies to another part of the room the other one follows.

Any kind of help would be great.

Thanks,
Jeff
Message: Posted by: Dave Scribner (Jan 31, 2005 06:33AM)
Ah, true love!!!!. Jeff, keeping a bird calm when trying to handle it is one of the biggest hurdles in dove magic. It sounds like the male needs a lot of handling. Once you have him outside the cage, spend a lot of time with it just sitting on your finger and stroking it from its head to the tip of the tail. Sort of like petting a cat. At first, just use one finger down the center of the bird but gradually start stroking with the thumb on one wind and the fingers on the other. Once he is comfortable with that, try holding it in the palm of your hand and gently cover the back with the other, not really holding it but just forming a pocket for him.

Doves can get real fidgety when you try putting them in a harness. Start by just holding the harness open and let the dove sit on it in your hand or on a table. He needs to get used to the material and learn that he isn't being hurt. Load him in the harness and let him sit in it for 10 minutes or so. It just takes time for him to get used to everything.

Now for the female, when you are training, remove the cage from site. If possible, set up curtains something that will block the view of everything but you. Hod the bird in that setting. If she flys off, she'll have nowhere to go but back to your finger. Again, it's just a matter of getting her used to you and the environment.
Message: Posted by: Nick Wait (Jan 31, 2005 11:27AM)
I don't actually have doves, but am considering getting them. I have seen that everyone respects daves advice and he is very knowlegeable in his advice. Seeing you only got these doves in December, I think your asking too much of them too soon. I have come to understand they take about six weeks (approx). They are pets not props.
Yours Sincerly
Nick

P.S. I suggest using the search button, I believe similar topics have been discussed previously. You'll see what a wise and wonderful wizard Dave is.
Message: Posted by: the74rock (Jan 31, 2005 11:35AM)
Are they old doves??
Message: Posted by: Dave Scribner (Jan 31, 2005 12:48PM)
Walsall, thanks for the compliments. I just pass on things that I have learned throughout the years. I completely overlooked that Jeff has only had the doves since December. Definitely not enought time to expect full cooperation. The first 6 weeks, they are just growing up. I usually don't start training for at least 6 months if they are new born and then it's a minimum of 6 weeks to train.

It's kind of a catch 22. New birds need time to grow and feather and older birds typically are set in their ways. Both take a considerable amount of time to train.

Jeff, just keep working with them and you'll begin to see the difference every day.
Message: Posted by: Andrew (Jan 31, 2005 01:36PM)
Jeff,

Just as a side note...
I have a dove that I hand feed when she was young but due to the quantity of doves that have grown at our house, I wasn't able to give her the attention that I have given to my regular "show" birds. However, just recently, I have set aside time to hand feed her again and within just a few days, she is relearning who I am and flies to me right away.
Dave's advice, as always, is top notch but I thought I throw in this bit of information. I've found that hand feeding goes a long way in building a strong relationship of trust with my doves. (I think, in fact, that I learned this from reading one of Dave's post!)
Hope this helps.

Andrew
Message: Posted by: Jeff Jenson (Jan 31, 2005 04:30PM)
Hey,
Thanks for all of your advise, by the way the74rock my birds are about a year old.
Message: Posted by: paraguppie (Jan 31, 2005 06:47PM)
Hi,

So let me get this strait so I can try it. You don't leave any feed in the cage and only feed them by hand? Mine are doing the same things (flying away from me, and the like). Let me know the details on this if you could. Thanks,

Keith
Message: Posted by: Dave Scribner (Jan 31, 2005 08:08PM)
Keith, usually hand feeding is done with the new born babies to get them used to you. If you use this method for training purposes, don't put feed in the cage on the day you are going to practice with them. They will be hungry and should be comfortable with you feeding them. If you work with them everyday, then you are correct. Don't put feed in the cage at all. Only hand feed them.
Message: Posted by: paraguppie (Jan 31, 2005 08:46PM)
Thanks Dave, your the man!

I bought my first dove harness and I'm going to start some work with that. Should be interesting to say the least. Thanks for the help.

Keith