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Topic: Gluing Magnet to Steel
Message: Posted by: LDM (Dec 26, 2005 11:28AM)
I need to glue a small circular magnet to a steel plate. It doesn't have to be rock solid, but I'd like it to stay. What kind should I use? I searched around a bit and found that JB Weld works for steel on steel, should I use that?
Message: Posted by: Stanyon (Dec 26, 2005 12:35PM)
JB Weld is what I have used with great success!


Cheers! ;)
Message: Posted by: Regan (Dec 26, 2005 01:43PM)
I just used a product called "Power Poxy" to glue a magnet to aluminum yesterday. It seems to work well, but I haven't really put it to the test yet.

I bought it at Wal Mart and is supposed to be 4 times stronger than super glue. It is ultra-clear, will not yellow, and it works on all types of metal. It will hold in about I minute, cures to be handled lightly in about an hour. Full cure for maximum strength is 24 hours.

If it works as advertised it should be good stuff!

Message: Posted by: billfromoregon (Dec 26, 2005 03:04PM)
I would think that any 2 part epoxy would work - I have had good luck with this for all the tasks I've used it for. I have not had very good luck with super glue and metal, as any impact tends to dislodge it, but it depends on the exact situation.
Message: Posted by: Michael Baker (Dec 26, 2005 09:51PM)
PC7 is a two part epoxy that I have found superior to most anything else. I find it at Ace Hardware.
Message: Posted by: Dave Lewis (Mar 8, 2006 12:35AM)
A buddy of mine patched a hole in his engine block by using JB Weld and a quarter! He blobbed on the JB Weld, pushed the quarter into it over the hole, frosted on some more JB Weld and let it cure. It held just fine and lasted longer than that engine.
Message: Posted by: leapinglizards (Mar 8, 2006 07:20AM)
Guerilla glue will glue anything to anything if you can clamp it.... It's unhealthy stuff to use- but it holds.
Message: Posted by: Regan (Mar 8, 2006 07:43AM)
I have been using 2 part epoxy recently to glue magnets to magnets and magnets to wood. It is available at Wal Mart in different formulas. The real quick drying kind was too quick drying for me. I would rather have a little more time for it to take a set. It seemed to heat up and expand too much, before I had time to do anything with it. It messed me up once and I had to do a redo. I always let it dry 24 hours for full strength anyway, so I went back to the slower drying type and it worked better for my project.

Message: Posted by: Dave Fiscus (Mar 8, 2006 07:05PM)
I find the two-part adhesives somewhat messy to work with and always wonder if I'm mixing the exactly right amounts of catalyst or hardener. I've got epoxy and JB Weld but seldom use them.
Many years ago I needed to glue sheet rubber to plastic and metal and a tech rep at the rubber supply company said to use an industrial adhesive called E6000. In those days it was hard to find but nowadays it is sold in silver tubes in many hardware stores. It is like thick, thick contact cement and complete hardening takes about 24 hours. Clean your metal with alcohol to remove oils before gluing.. good advice when using any type of glue on nonporous surfaces.
Message: Posted by: Bill Hegbli (Mar 8, 2006 08:48PM)
Hot Glue may work just fine! All the above suggestions are excellent!!
Message: Posted by: EsnRedshirt (Mar 8, 2006 08:59PM)
I don't know- honestly, you may not have a lot of luck using hot glue, especially if the object is going to be under any stress at all- metal's not porous enough for hot glue to be effective (or even white glue for that matter.) Stick with the two part epoxies and stuff like JB Weld for the strongest joins.
Message: Posted by: Starrpower (Mar 9, 2006 10:16AM)
I spoke with a friend yesterday who did this with Gorilla Glue, and said it's held for a long time despite attempts to pull the pieces apart.
Message: Posted by: 61magic (Mar 9, 2006 11:50AM)
Look for a product called E6000. It comes in a tube, it make less mess than epoxy, and holds really well.
Message: Posted by: muzicman (Mar 9, 2006 12:04PM)
I think it would depend on the size and power of the magnet. Simple Elmers glue would work for some applications, gorilla glue will attach anything to anything. 2 Part epoxy works well for most surfaces as well. I use rare Earth magnets and I use all the above as well as 2 sided tape for the smaller magnets. Like I said, it depends on the size and power of the magnet as well as the types of surfaces you are joining.
Message: Posted by: gulamerian (Mar 9, 2006 03:18PM)
I have used Gorilla Glue. You can use this on any thing.
Message: Posted by: gerard1973 (Mar 21, 2006 07:10AM)
As mentioned in the above posts, my suggestion would have been to use Gorilla Glue. It is a 100% Waterproof polyurethane glue that will bond Wood, Stone, Metal, Ceramics and just about anything else. Gorilla Glue is probably the strongest and most versatile glue on the market today.
Message: Posted by: Kevin Janise (Jun 11, 2019 12:03AM)
Old post but Gorilla Glue works great. I glued a small Neodymium magnet to the door of my mailbox to keep is shut. Glue lasted about 10 years and that was exposed to Texas weather. One thing to keep in mind is that Gorilla Glue expands when it dries so be careful of how much you use.
Message: Posted by: Anverdi-museum (Jul 5, 2019 07:16AM)
You have to first sand the magnet with coarse sandpaper to bet a "bite" on it, the same as the area of steel it is to be attached to. A few dabs of Gorilla Glue will work great as well as J B Weld is good. Hot glue will not be permanent.
Message: Posted by: lnlver (Jul 5, 2019 09:11AM)
If you use Gorilla glue, you should clamp the two pieces together with a steel C-clamp. This glue tends to expand significantly. It will ooze out along the edge of the magnet, but you can remove the excess glue away easily with a chisel.
Message: Posted by: illusionman2 (Jul 9, 2019 05:08AM)
[quote]On Mar 9, 2006, 61magic wrote:
Look for a product called E6000. It comes in a tube, it make less mess than epoxy, and holds really well. [/quote]

E6000 is what I use but do let it cure fully a week.
Message: Posted by: randirain (Jul 9, 2019 07:42PM)
Listen to Anverd... Glue doesn't like to stick to that smooth chrome on those neo magnets.

Also, don't use CA glue.

Message: Posted by: imgic (Jul 29, 2019 01:36PM)
I recently glued a small neo magnet to bottom of a plastic glass, then another to my suitcase table. Idea was to produce the glass, set it on the suitcase. Then open the suitcase lid to get something, and the glass would stay on lid and not fall off.

Using a dot of E6000 glue, everything was fine..until I went to try setting glass down. Realized I didn't check polarity of magnets. Instead of attracting...they repulsed...
Message: Posted by: Dan David (Sep 9, 2019 10:59PM)
As mentioned before, good surface preparation can be quite helpful. The suggestion to sand the parts was excellent, but it might be possible to do a bit more. If you have access to a drill press you might be able to create a shallow circular cavity in the steel, and that will significantly enhance the bond. I have inlaid quite a few magnets this way with good results.
Message: Posted by: magiccollector69 (Nov 6, 2019 02:40PM)
I'm a model builder, familar with CA and Epoxy glues. Here are a few tips:

1. CA ("superglue") comes in a variety of thicknesses, from water like to a gel, from instant curing to multiple minutes curing. It can be dissolved with acetone, or fingernail remover. CA is strong if you're pulling 90 degrees on a glued surface, but weaker in torsion, or lateral (sliding) pressures. It also has a shelf life once opened. You can also buy 'kicker' at hobby shops which will instantly harden/set CA, but it leaves an oily surface which must then be cleaned. CA is not my favorite glue.

2. Epoxy comes in a variety of forms. There are two part epoxy putties (and non-epoxy analogues), and some of these are used by artists to sculpt small scale gaming minis which have extreme detail. JB Weld is epoxy with powdered metal added Expoxy can also be dissolved with acetone but it takes a lot longer. Epoxy is slightly more annoying to work with (you have to mix two parts then wait for it to start to harden) but properly done it's an extremely solid adhesive. Epoxy comes in various forms, some hardening in 5 minutes, some taking much longer. Easiest way to mix the two parts is on a piece of wax paper, using a popsicle stick or toothpick to mix it. Downside to epoxy is that when it's curing, it smells bad. Stinks even. Because epoxy is hard/annoying to machine after it's set, be sure to clear excess off the parts when it's still soft, before it's started to cure.

Despite the above annoyances, epoxy is my preferred adhesive when dealing with wood, metal, or resins (which are used by many manufacturers to make things like PK scarabs, etc.)

3. Dan David above touches on an excellent point: regardless of which adhesive you are using, prep and possible reinforcement of the materials to be bonded helps immensely. For example when I'm assembling two heavy parts of a model using 5 minute epoxy, I may still 'pin' the parts using a piece of cutoff wire (wire coat hangers are a good source) either after the initial gluing, or before it. If you're doing something like gluing a magnet to a surface, if you can sink the magnet into the surface of the material even by 1mm, you'll have a tremendous strength advantage. If you can't countersink it, using a dremel to engrave both surfaces will give a place for glues to fill, which will increase sliding resistance. Downside is that after engraving you may need to knock down any burrs on both surfaces to get a smooth fit, and I'm not entirely sure what engraving would do to some magnets. It could shatter cheap ones for example. Best to countersink magnets when possible.
Message: Posted by: ringmaster (Nov 29, 2019 07:31PM)
I just put a drop of gel type superglue on a magnet and stuck it to the side of my drill
press. Total time, a couple of seconds. It's already holding a chuck key.