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Topic: Techniques for aging a prop
Message: Posted by: spcarlson (Jul 28, 2011 08:05PM)
I have seen some wonderfully made props that have been very creatively aged, one of the aging techniques uses, what looks like white paint, which is lightly splattered on the surface to give a water damaged effect.

If you know or are familiar with what I am referring to do you know what product would be best to use and what would be the best method for applying it?

Thanks for any help you can offer

Steve
Message: Posted by: Ray Pierce (Jul 28, 2011 08:47PM)
My best method for aging props is to let me tour with them for 10 years. Short of that I would look up Chapter 11 of "Scenic Art for the Theatre" By Susan Crabtree & Peter Beudert which deals specifically on aging techniques.
Message: Posted by: spcarlson (Jul 29, 2011 09:47AM)
Ray,

I know what you mean, nothing beats plain old wear and tear.

Thanks for the tip, I will be sure to check out the book.

Steve
Message: Posted by: George Ledo (Jul 29, 2011 12:53PM)
Check out my article on it. If nothing else, you can't beat the price! :)

http://www.themagiccafe.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=163866&forum=173&1
Message: Posted by: IDOTRIX (Jul 29, 2011 09:21PM)
Lend it to a fellow magician
Message: Posted by: spcarlson (Jul 29, 2011 10:19PM)
George:

That is an absolutely brilliant article!

Thanks for sharing your insights and findings they are priceless!

Steve
Message: Posted by: Bapu (Aug 4, 2011 09:03AM)
[quote]
On 2011-07-28 21:05, spcarlson wrote:
I have seen some wonderfully made props that have been very creatively aged, one of the aging techniques uses, what looks like white paint, which is lightly splattered on the surface to give a water damaged effect.

If you know or are familiar with what I am referring to do you know what product would be best to use and what would be the best method for applying it?

Thanks for any help you can offer

Steve
[/quote]

Steve, do you want to age metal or wood?
Message: Posted by: sb (Aug 4, 2011 11:38AM)
George, thanks again for the article. Actually, thank you for all of your articles! they are all great. now, go write some more. :)

scott
Message: Posted by: B.W. McCarron (Aug 23, 2011 02:29PM)
Here's some info on making a musical instrument appear old.. (We call our old beater guitars "Relics"). will pertain to wooden magioal props, too, depending on how they were finished.

http://www.tdpri.com/resourceRELICING.htm
Message: Posted by: jay leslie (Aug 23, 2011 02:54PM)
George's post is perfect.
Message: Posted by: George Ledo (Aug 24, 2011 08:46PM)
Geez, Jay, coming from you that's quite a compliment. Thank you and I'm glad you liked it.
Message: Posted by: thegreatnippulini (Aug 25, 2011 05:10PM)
There are a number of kits available for patinating. Crackle paint is also readily available and IMHO works really well. I have 100 year old paint in my house that is naturally crackled and the spray paint looks almost exactly the same. There is also a kit my wife uses for antiquing furniture that includes (for example) ivory paint and a small can of stain. The ivory is applied and let dry. Then the surfaces are randomly attacked with sandpaper. After that, the stain is applied and immediately wiped off. The stain "dirties" the paint and settles in the low spots left by the sandpaper. Very effective. A combination of crackle paint and the aging kit would work nicely as well.
Message: Posted by: Ms. Merizing (Sep 1, 2011 09:35AM)
Spcarlson,
Take a look at Doc O’Brien’s weathering powders: http://www.micromark.com/ search #81632. The powders are available in 12 colors, self-adhesive, & non-toxic.
You can create that weathered/worn appearance on just about any surface.

The Age-It-Easy product may prove useful on your props made of wood: http://www.micromark.com/ search #80873.
Message: Posted by: Dr_J_Ayala (Sep 1, 2011 10:12AM)
[quote]
On 2011-09-01 10:35, Ms. Merizing wrote:
Spcarlson,
Take a look at Doc O’Brien’s weathering powders: http://www.micromark.com/ search #81632. The powders are available in 12 colors, self-adhesive, & non-toxic.
You can create that weathered/worn appearance on just about any surface.

The Age-It-Easy product may prove useful on your props made of wood: http://www.micromark.com/ search #80873.
[/quote]

The Doc O'Brien powders work very well - I use them mostly for my model railroading to age locomotives, cars, buildings, etc. If it is desired, you can even seal the object you are weathering with a light spraying of dull cote to help preserve it that way, and if the Dull Cote spray would not hinder/change the working/desired look of your prop(s). Highly recommended!
Message: Posted by: Michael Baker (Sep 1, 2011 10:34AM)
Ms. Merizing, thanks for that link. I was a big fan of Rust All, but the local shops don't carry it. I think these will come in handy.

Dr. J... It seems as if we have something else in common. I modeled railroads for years. I had a 5' x 16' N scale layout, Burlington Route, Zephyrs, and Santa Fe. It was a loose representation of the town where I grew up. Sold it all when I moved, though. I've known for a long time that there are many areas that cross over between magic and modeling! :)

On the topic of weathering products, Klamm Magic used to sell a bill aging compound. Maybe they still do. You could make gaffs from crisp new bills and then properly age them in a matter of minutes. Good stuff.
Message: Posted by: spcarlson (Sep 21, 2011 02:59PM)
Thank you everyone for he great tips and links they are proving to be very helpful.

The project I am working on at present is wood but the products for aging metal are great for future reference. I never realized there was so much out there!

Steve
Message: Posted by: Michael Baker (Sep 21, 2011 03:57PM)
Unless the products specifically alter the chemical compound of the material, i.e., expedited patina on metal, some of the products may only be superficial "cosmetic" changers. An example is the "Rust-All" product I used. It could be applied to plastic, wood or metal, painted or not, and have the same results... that of rust. It pays to experiment.
Message: Posted by: mikenewman (Sep 30, 2011 02:11AM)
All,
Once again the Café has come through!
I bought a "Haunted Key" for $5. And I was thinking it would be an antique looking key. As you are probably aware, it is a high gloss silver and looks brand new. Not the effect I wanted. I realize there are keys out there that are already "antique". But my way is cheaper and now it will be more fun to improve mine!

So, I am going to look into these and see what works best.

Besides, I am pretty sure the key I have is a hard plastic. It’s cheap enough where I can experiment.

Thanks guys!

Mike
Message: Posted by: thegreatnippulini (Sep 30, 2011 07:20AM)
Mike, there are a number of methods for rusting metal. PM me and I can give you some tips.
Message: Posted by: Chris Stolz (Sep 30, 2011 08:40AM)
http://www.bozzle.com/id_Antiquating.html
Message: Posted by: George Ledo (Oct 1, 2011 10:41AM)
Good article. Thanks for the link. The only issue I have with it is that it gives you step-by-step instructions on how to do something, but doesn't include photos or explain why you're doing each step. For instance, the part about scraping off the wax is good; the wax is a resist to keep paint off the surface, but you don't get a clue as to how much or what it wants to look like. This is one of those cases where you could follow the instructions to the letter and end up not liking the result, but not knowing why you don't like it.
Message: Posted by: pattyluker (Feb 19, 2012 01:09PM)
You may want to try the products at Stoney Mountain Classic Castings. They carry a large Weathering Kit (18 Color) pigments and are introducing a new line in Stains. Go to http://www.shop.stoneymountaincc.com or check out the store front on Ebay.
Message: Posted by: Bob1Dog (Feb 19, 2012 04:22PM)
Welcome aboard pattyluker. Interesting 1st post!

Actually, I'm restoring a old MAK French Wrist Chopper and didn't know where to post this. Thought I would try here. It's just old and rickety and the last time I tested it before a performance, one of the spacer shims fell off and rendered the trick useless so I axed it for the performance. I was actually going to throw it in the garbage because MAK doesn't make a quality chopper; at least this one isn't.

My wife convinced me that I should look it over before trashing it, and I did. I took the whole thing apart, and found that all it really needed was some new glue and tightening up. However, in my test failure, the blade got stuck and jammed in the bottom, marring the surface pretty badly. I took some emery cloth and a file to the aluminum blade dings and realized I would have to put a lot of elbow work into re polishnig the blade, and the effect just isn't worth that much labor to me.

So I thought, why not age the blade? Rough it up a bit and stain it somehow so that it gives the appearance of old blood stains on it. It is after all an old prop I purchased from someone for about $75 and I only used it twice. I introduce it as an old device anyway, that might be "well, a little rusty in some places." So aging the blade might add to the effect.

Any ideas on how to make that blade look old, worn and bloody without the blood?
Message: Posted by: Son of a Beat (Mar 20, 2012 08:30PM)
SUN and RAIN.
Before building is even best.