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Topic: The Ribbon Clock Time Machine
Message: Posted by: mroek (Apr 16, 2018 03:34AM)
I've created what I think is a brand new version of the age-old cut and restored ribbon trick, and I have named it "The Ribbon Clock Time Machine". Here are some pictures of my first fully functional prototype:

As seen from the front:
[img]https://s26.postimg.cc/dl8696bnd/picture2.jpg[/img]
[img]https://s26.postimg.cc/mt0epvqfd/picture4.jpg[/img]

And from the back:
[img]https://s26.postimg.cc/j9eh020k9/picture3.jpg[/img]

Before cutting the ribbon:
[img]https://s26.postimg.cc/u8zobotk9/picture5.jpg[/img]
[img]https://s26.postimg.cc/wdk1cqd6h/picture6.jpg[/img]

Ribbon has been cut in two places:
[img]https://s26.postimg.cc/wdk1cqkw9/picture7.jpg[/img]

Clock has been reassembled in a new configuration:
[img]https://s26.postimg.cc/pn3k3bd61/picture8.jpg[/img]

And finally, time has been turned back and ribbon is restored:
[img]https://s26.postimg.cc/i74ahjs1l/picture9.jpg[/img]

This is completely my own design (made on a 3D-printer, as you can probably see), and I believe it is quite unique. I wanted to write something along the lines of "Time flies backwards" in latin on the face of the clock (in this case I just used the word Retro to indicate backwards), but I think it would be better to just write "Machina Temporis" instead, to literally say "machine of time".

Opinions welcome. :-)

Oh, and I also made a video of me performing it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CgGZ4nDw1JQ

The patter could of course have been better, but English is not my mother tongue, so this is what I ended up with.
Message: Posted by: Vater Araignee (Apr 16, 2018 05:02AM)
BOOK MARKED! I watched the video on silent the first time through and liked what I saw. The presentation ideas just started coming.

I'm impressed with the apparent quality of the print and want to see pics of the stages between now and completely finishing it.
Makes me wonder if 3D printers could help save brick and mortars. They could sell items as fresh off the bed (finish it yourself) and have a finishing service.

Soooo many technical questions. Like:
How many hours did you print?
Is the clock just prototype print quality?
Can you run TPU filament?
and on and on.


Beautiful, just beautiful.
Message: Posted by: saverle (Apr 16, 2018 05:18AM)
What a fantastic effect! It reminds me of Richard Gerlitz Family Ties, but I've only seen pictures of that trick.

This is simply brilliant! The whole concept is great!

And I have no idea how it works!
Message: Posted by: mroek (Apr 16, 2018 05:30AM)
Thanks! You may be surprised, but what you see is straight from the printer, no finishing has been done on the outside. The only thing I've done is to add the clock face, which I printed on a regular inkjet printer on self adhesive special paper (which is even weatherproof, according to the manufacturer).

The front faces are printed down on the printer bed, and due to the surface I use on the print bed, the end result is very shiny (almost a mirror finish) like you see on the photos. The same is true for the rear covers, which are also shiny. The sides and top faces are not as shiny, as you can see, but it was printed at a fairly high resolution (0.2 mm), so they still look good. Layer lines are of course still visible, but in my opinion very acceptable. Higher resolutions take so much more time, and I don't think it is worth it.

Printing time for this is roughly 10 hours (didn't time it) for all parts at this resolution. No TPU is used (or even necessary).
Message: Posted by: Anverdi-museum (Apr 16, 2018 05:43AM)
Great job....that is a very good concept!
Message: Posted by: Vater Araignee (Apr 16, 2018 06:02AM)
How much would you charge for a 1 foot (30.5cm) wide version? The resolution doesn't have to be great because I would be giving it a black walnut veneer. If the price is right, then the next time I gig, you have a customer.
Message: Posted by: mroek (Apr 16, 2018 06:20AM)
Not sure if that would work well, not everything is easily upscaled. That would be almost a doubling of the width of the current prototype (which is just shy of 16 cm in width). It is most likely possible to do, but it would require some internal redesign. For now, I wouldn't want to do that, but perhaps one day...

Not sure how easy it would be to add a walnut veneer either. It would be difficult to bend the veneer so it looks good, I'd guess.
Message: Posted by: Vater Araignee (Apr 16, 2018 08:06AM)
6" hmmm,what is the furthest distance away you think the effect would still play well at? I think I need to cover a maximum of 40 feet.

Customized clamp blocks and a steamer. It doesn't look like there is a radii to tight and I'm willing to bet the center could be covered with 3 pieces and know it could be done in 5, and the sides would take 6. No need to veneer the molding, in fact printing it would be wasting your time and resources on me.

I see this as a great start and finish for something my wife has been begging me to do. My wife is part of a Role playing group that I refer to as the "Middle aged pretty pretty princess tea party" and they want to higher me. I have been refusing because they don't want The Vater, they want a gentleman and I haven't been able to come up with much more than torn and restored doilies, breaking the handles off tea cups, going into C&B with teacups and sugar cubes then restoring the cups along with the traditional dinner table tricks and for me a boring character. Yore Time Machine would give me the "Person displaced in time" and that is something I can work with.

Start routine with ribbon already cut.
"See? I knew I had already performed, the cut ribbon proves it. I always end with a cut ribbon."
Start walking away. The wife objects.
"Oh dear, I must have been displaced again."
Restore ribbon by turning back time and proceed with other effects.
Once done cut the ribbon into three and place in front of clock.
the long time misdirection should make them forget that the ribbon did not start in front of in the clock.
Message: Posted by: mroek (Apr 16, 2018 08:35AM)
Regarding the veneer, if there is steam involved the veneer may be so hot that it softens the plastic, which would not be good. The plastic used is PLA, and it doesn't handle high heat. And also, the walls are quite thin to save on plastic and printing time, so adding lots of force to clamp veneer to it is most likely not a good idea anyway.

40 feet would be too far away, I think. You'd need eagle eyes to enjoy the trick at that distance. Even a double sized version might be a stretch that far away.

Your routine idea is creative, no doubt! :-)
Message: Posted by: lnlver (Apr 16, 2018 09:18AM)
I don't think adding veneer would constitute a problem. In addition to using steam to bend veneer, you can take a damp rag and dab the piece, bend it as much as possible without breaking, clamp it in that position, then let it dry completely; repeat the process until the veneer is in the desired shape. With some careful sanding, you can restore the finish.

Of course, the degree to which you can bend the veneer will depend on its thickness. The thinner veneer, the more you can bend it. The other limitation is the radius of curvature.

Nice trick, mroek. By the way, I'm currently working on my version of your Golden Temple (aka Magic Wagon's Pagoda Mystery) Illusion.
Message: Posted by: mroek (Apr 16, 2018 10:05AM)
I'm not used to working with veneer, so you're probably right. However, I remain skeptical that it is a good idea to add veneer to a 3D-printed part. I'm skeptical that it will actually look very good. A better option is to print with filament that contains genuine wood in it. You will not get the pattern that veneer gives, but the plastic does look a little less "plasticky", if you know what I mean.

I've experiemented a little with colors, and here's a rendered (i.e not an actual photo) image of how it would look in black with a red base:

[img]https://s26.postimg.cc/di5x3crbd/render_black_and_red.jpg[/img]

I also changed the text on the clock face a little, so instead of "Retro" it now reads "Machina temporis".
Message: Posted by: gimpy2 (Apr 16, 2018 10:21AM)
Should be no problem bending veneer on something like that. Paper backed veneer bends easily. The glue might be an issue with the thin plastic. Could probably use waterbased contact cement or pre glued PSV. Probably be about as easy to just make it out of wood to start with, or it would be for me since I have no real computer skills. Very cool idea indeed.
Message: Posted by: Vater Araignee (Apr 16, 2018 10:31AM)
Mroek,

What you do is trace the object onto a plank of suitable thickness, cut the shape and section the portions so that they don't grab the original shape. Sand out the saw marks from any surface that contacts the veneer (I also wax them) position the veneer onto the main block and start adding the blocks and clamps. Depending on the severity of the radii and thickness of the veneer you may need add one or two blocks, then steam the assembly and add more and or tighten the existing clamps. If I had a suitable workspace I wouldn't use wood for my blocks, I would make a block form and recycle hdpe for the purpose because its melting point is 30c above boiling.

the room is 40' is the maximum distance obtainable in the room so its the easiest number to come to mind. I'll give you with a more accurate distance after I graph the room and block out my table position. Now that I actually want to do the middle aged pretty pretty princess tea party. lol
Message: Posted by: J M Talbot (Apr 16, 2018 10:39AM)
Looks amazing! Congrats on creating an original approach to this effect. Love the back in time theme.

John
Message: Posted by: Wizard of Oz (Apr 16, 2018 08:06PM)
Sometimes I see a prop and effect that I am so impressed by, I can only say "!@#$ You." And I say it in the most affectionate and complimentary manner as possible...meaning...I have seen a lot, and own a lot of great magic, and you have just punched me in the gut.

So good in every way. The mechanics I get, but what you have done with the third element in the cut and restored plot (which as already mentioned is reminiscent of Gerlitz's "Family Ties," but you have the clock dial which is BRILLIANT), and the introduction of time travel as the driver is absolutely wonderful.

So, per the discussions above, I could see you taking this to the next level and putting out a finely crafted, limited edition collectible prop that actually looks like a well-cared for heirloom. Wood veneer. Slightly discolored clock face. And it would sell out. You could also put out a more reasonably priced 3D printed version that is what it is, and let the performers weave her or his own story.

Given the prop you have and your current video, I would simply switch the story up to be more believable, considering your prop is obviously NOT old... "I remember growing up, and my Grandfather showing me this mysterious little clock. It was an odd thing, built out of three pieces and had a ribbon going through the middle of it. He said it "told him about time." I thought he misspoke since his English was limited and that he meant, "it told him the time." But that's not what he meant. He actually meant that this special clock "told him about time."

I don't have that clock. No one does. And everyone in my family can remember seeing it, but no one can ever remember where it went. Weird. But I remember how it looked. Perfectly. Every detail. At least from the outside. So using the lab at our library I created what you have in front of us. My Grandfather's Tempus Fugit clock. I don't know how it works, but it looks EXACTLY how I remember.

If I think really hard, I can remember what my Grandfather did to show us how this odd little clock, will tell us about time... let me show you."

Anyway...a way to turn an obvious modern looking prop into an old mystery. Simply great work Mroek. It's always fun to welcome someone so smart to the table here at The Café.
Message: Posted by: Payner44 (Apr 16, 2018 10:35PM)
I want one!
Message: Posted by: BanzaiMagic (Apr 16, 2018 11:12PM)
Impressive work. Beautiful micro illusion.
Message: Posted by: DaleTrueman (Apr 17, 2018 12:59AM)
[quote]On Apr 16, 2018, mroek wrote:
Regarding the veneer, if there is steam involved the veneer may be so hot that it softens the plastic, which would not be good. The plastic used is PLA, and it doesn't handle high heat. And also, the walls are quite thin to save on plastic and printing time, so adding lots of force to clamp veneer to it is most likely not a good idea anyway.

40 feet would be too far away, I think. You'd need eagle eyes to enjoy the trick at that distance. Even a double sized version might be a stretch that far away.

Your routine idea is creative, no doubt! :-) [/quote]


I have glued veneer to a 3d printed object. It worked well, unfortunately I don't have a photo to show.
Message: Posted by: DaleTrueman (Apr 17, 2018 01:00AM)
Very nice design by the way!
Message: Posted by: mroek (Apr 17, 2018 03:01AM)
@Wizard of Oz: A very good idea for storyline there. My story was rather quickly conceived, and as I said, English is obviously not my mother tongue. That said, if/when I decide to make a few of these available, people can of course make their own story just as they see fit. A remotely interesting tidbit is that my grandfather actually was a watchmaker, and I have fond memories from his shop (and workshop).

When you say you "get the mechanics", does that mean you think you know how this is done (if so, don't write your theory here, I'm just wondering)?

Regarding Gerlitz's "Family Ties", I have seen pictures of that trick, but as far as I know, there is no video of it online, and I do not know how that one works, so I can't say if there is any mechanical similarity to my method or not.

Finally, the veener thing again. I believe it would be difficult to put veneer on the smallest curves (like on the base), but if the veneer is thin enough, it might work. It would most likely take quite a bit of time to do, so would add a lot to the cost. Using wood-infused plastic is of course a lot easier, but that does not give any grain, of course.
Message: Posted by: Seth speaks (Apr 17, 2018 12:17PM)
Holy wow... this is impressive beyond words!! Wonderful design, and the creativity involved is just staggering. I think you have found a new income source, sir—if you wish to go in that direction! Congratulations on this achievement. You are a craftsman I will certainly be following...
Message: Posted by: DaleTrueman (Apr 17, 2018 05:32PM)
[quote]

Finally, the veener thing again. I believe it would be difficult to put veneer on the smallest curves (like on the base), but if the veneer is thin enough, it might work. It would most likely take quite a bit of time to do, so would add a lot to the cost. Using wood-infused plastic is of course a lot easier, but that does not give any grain, of course. [/quote]

Possibly, though veneer can be almost paper thin. Stuff I have used has been about the thickness of the sort of cardboard they make greeting cards from and quite flexible.

The top of this is a veneer glued to curved plywood. It was very thin veneer. It could be rolled up into a loose tube (carefully as it's also quite brittle). With care I think it could be applied to your awesome clock.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO1N39GLrS3Ur7G9wf06zBY_SezDzFeWxSMa5Gf
Message: Posted by: gimpy2 (Apr 18, 2018 09:02AM)
Okay a little on veneer. I veneer something about every day or two. I have done just about all the types of veneer out there at one time or another. Veneers come in several ways and use different methods to apply.
Raw veneer is just very thin wood sheets. Raw veneer is cheap but very hard to work with without a vacume sestem.
Another option is backed veneer. Woodbacked veneer is not very flexable and the thickest of the backed veneers. It is hard to cut cleanly with a knife so its better for flat square projects like a table top. Several glue options.

I use paper backed veneers. Its thin wood or composites with a factory applied paper backing. This stuff is very easy to work with. It comes in 10 mil and 20 mil thickness. 10 mil is 1/64" thick so its very flexable.Several glue choices here. For small projects I like gel contact cement. I have heard of folks having problems with getting bubbles or a poor bond with contact cement but I rarely run in to this. Proper temp and humidity and a good seal coat prevents problems. A great thing about thin paper back is how easy it cuts. Cut the veneer with sissors a bit bigger than you need stick it on and trim off the exess with a utility knife. once all your pieces are in place you can sand starting with 220 grit for perfect cornners.
As mentioned above you would need to use water base contact cement on something like the clock.Regular contact cement will melt plastic. I have put wood veneer on styrofoam and had no problems with the water based. The detail on the clock wont work very good with veneer. The curves are no problem but the recess ribbon detail would have to be flat or filled in or you will get a big bubble. The trim would have to be painted or made of wood.
A good option to get a wood look is to faux paint a wood patern directly on the piece but that's a whole other topic.
Message: Posted by: Angelo Carbone (Apr 18, 2018 08:23PM)
What an amazing trick! Kudos to you sir!
Message: Posted by: Wizard of Oz (Apr 18, 2018 08:39PM)
[quote]On Apr 18, 2018, Angelo Carbone wrote:
What an amazing trick! Kudos to you sir! [/quote]

Well mroek, there you have it. Praise from one of the most innovative magic minds of our time in my opinion. Not bad.
Message: Posted by: mroek (Apr 19, 2018 03:42AM)
I am blown away by all the nice comments! Thanks, everyone!
Message: Posted by: DaleTrueman (Apr 21, 2018 02:31AM)
[quote]On Apr 18, 2018, gimpy2 wrote:
Okay a little on veneer. I veneer something about every day or two. I have done just about all the types of veneer out there at one time or another. Veneers come in several ways and use different methods to apply.
Raw veneer is just very thin wood sheets. Raw veneer is cheap but very hard to work with without a vacume sestem.
Another option is backed veneer. Woodbacked veneer is not very flexable and the thickest of the backed veneers. It is hard to cut cleanly with a knife so its better for flat square projects like a table top. Several glue options.

I use paper backed veneers. Its thin wood or composites with a factory applied paper backing. This stuff is very easy to work with. It comes in 10 mil and 20 mil thickness. 10 mil is 1/64" thick so its very flexable.Several glue choices here. For small projects I like gel contact cement. I have heard of folks having problems with getting bubbles or a poor bond with contact cement but I rarely run in to this. Proper temp and humidity and a good seal coat prevents problems. A great thing about thin paper back is how easy it cuts. Cut the veneer with sissors a bit bigger than you need stick it on and trim off the exess with a utility knife. once all your pieces are in place you can sand starting with 220 grit for perfect cornners.
As mentioned above you would need to use water base contact cement on something like the clock.Regular contact cement will melt plastic. I have put wood veneer on styrofoam and had no problems with the water based. The detail on the clock wont work very good with veneer. The curves are no problem but the recess ribbon detail would have to be flat or filled in or you will get a big bubble. The trim would have to be painted or made of wood.
A good option to get a wood look is to faux paint a wood patern directly on the piece but that's a whole other topic. [/quote]Sounds great and I don't want to be picky but 1/64 of an inch is about .4 mil. 10 mil is quite thick, almost a third of an inch.
Message: Posted by: Vater Araignee (Apr 21, 2018 08:45AM)
[quote]On Apr 21, 2018, DaleTrueman wrote:
Sounds great and I don't want to be picky but 1/64 of an inch is about .4 mil. 10 mil is quite thick, almost a third of an inch. [/quote]

I don't want to be picky... well, yes, yes I do! A mil is not the same as a mm.
A mil is 0.001 inch in thickness so 1/64 is 0.015625" and 10 mil is 0.01" or so close to 1/64 that for practical home reasons it doesn't matter.
Now with .4 mil you are talking ten thousandths of an inch.
By the way, a third of an inch would be 330 mil or 8.382 mm if a gave a customer something 0.0637" to thick, I would get fired. Best to call 1/3" 8.5mm because 4 thou tolerance is forgivable unless you are working something like aerospace.
Actually now that I think about it, I don't know what measuring system you are confusing because you said 10 was almost 1/3" implying that it is < where as you surely would have used something to indicate > if you thought it was so, or something like approximately if you weren't sure.
Message: Posted by: DaleTrueman (Apr 23, 2018 05:43PM)
[quote]On Apr 21, 2018, Vater Araignee wrote:
[quote]On Apr 21, 2018, DaleTrueman wrote:
Sounds great and I don't want to be picky but 1/64 of an inch is about .4 mil. 10 mil is quite thick, almost a third of an inch. [/quote]

I don't want to be picky... well, yes, yes I do! A mil is not the same as a mm.
A mil is 0.001 inch in thickness so 1/64 is 0.015625" and 10 mil is 0.01" or so close to 1/64 that for practical home reasons it doesn't matter.
Now with .4 mil you are talking ten thousandths of an inch.
By the way, a third of an inch would be 330 mil or 8.382 mm if a gave a customer something 0.0637" to thick, I would get fired. Best to call 1/3" 8.5mm because 4 thou tolerance is forgivable unless you are working something like aerospace.
Actually now that I think about it, I don't know what measuring system you are confusing because you said 10 was almost 1/3" implying that it is < where as you surely would have used something to indicate > if you thought it was so, or something like approximately if you weren't sure. [/quote]

I stand completely and utterly corrected and I have learnt something.

I guess as someone who grew up with only the metric system I made a poor assumption that the person quoting thicknesses grew up with the imperial system and was confused. Turns out the confused person was me! Thanks for setting me straight. :)
Message: Posted by: Vater Araignee (Apr 24, 2018 03:29PM)
[quote]On Apr 23, 2018, DaleTrueman wrote:


I stand completely and utterly corrected and I have learnt something.

I guess as someone who grew up with only the metric system I made a poor assumption that the person quoting thicknesses grew up with the imperial system and was confused. Turns out the confused person was me! Thanks for setting me straight. :) [/quote]
To be honest, I use to try to get machinists to stop using mil because of the confusion especially since it comes from the Latin mille and just stick with thou. I stopped talking about any alternate words and systems when I accidentally got a few to start using moot to confuse newbies. Funny enough, 1 moot = 0.333... inch. lol
Want to get really confused? A surveyors foot is bigger than the us/international foot, using either to build something described in Roman feet will yield an object smaller than intended.
Message: Posted by: marc_casellato (Apr 24, 2018 07:14PM)
Very impressive! You've made a very good prop and plot!
Message: Posted by: thomhaha (Apr 29, 2018 08:34PM)
Superb looking prop. My father restored clocks as a hobby, and yours looks like one I recall from childhood.

There are quality papers printed as wood that could also be used to adorn, enough for stage appearances. But if I were purchasing, I would prefer veneer!
Message: Posted by: Pedro Nieves (May 6, 2018 07:06PM)
Mroek, this looks terrific. I'm impressed with how precise your 3D Print parts are. Definitely impressed with the effect itself! I love the prop, plot and effect, and that's not very often the case nowadays. I would be proud to have this on my shelf, both at home and at our shop.

Do you mind if I ask what's your reset time? How practical is it to perform this if one were doing, say, back to back shows?

I'm looking forward to seeing future iterations of this and to seeing what other pieces you come up with.
Message: Posted by: Pedro Nieves (May 6, 2018 07:20PM)
[quote]On Apr 17, 2018, mroek wrote:

Finally, the veener thing again. I believe it would be difficult to put veneer on the smallest curves (like on the base), but if the veneer is thin enough, it might work. It would most likely take quite a bit of time to do, so would add a lot to the cost. Using wood-infused plastic is of course a lot easier, but that does not give any grain, of course. [/quote]

I believe that what Vater suggested was printing the base flat, straight down. After adding veneer over the face you (he) could add actual wood molding at the base. That way he would not have to worry about adding veneer over the tightest curves at the base. The only consideration for that would be if the mechanism required you to use the inside space that the trim or molding gives you. Not knowing how your piece works, I don't know how difficult it would be to move the internal components around.

Either way, it should be possible to veneer this just fine if one has the know how and proper tools. Yes, it would add manufacturing time and cost to the unit, but it could be an option available to people who may want this piece in their show but who would not want it to have the trademark signs of 3D printing.
Message: Posted by: mroek (May 7, 2018 01:38AM)
[quote]On May 6, 2018, Pedro Nieves wrote:
Mroek, this looks terrific. I'm impressed with how precise your 3D Print parts are. Definitely impressed with the effect itself! I love the prop, plot and effect, and that's not very often the case nowadays. I would be proud to have this on my shelf, both at home and at our shop.

Do you mind if I ask what's your reset time? How practical is it to perform this if one were doing, say, back to back shows?

I'm looking forward to seeing future iterations of this and to seeing what other pieces you come up with. [/quote]
Pedro, thanks for the kind words!
The reset time is around 5 minutes or less with some practice, so you'd need a break of at least that length between shows.
Message: Posted by: Pedro Nieves (May 10, 2018 08:54PM)
I wonder if anything could be done to cut some of that re-set time...

I think this would be a great piece to perform at trade shows. Several different presentation options come to mind when watching it, and the routines could be customized easily to different products. It definitely looks like a piece that will make people stop and watch, and possibly even stick around to watch your set more than once. But in that setting you are really hopping for no or short reset whenever possible. That said, this may be an exception.

Keep up the great work!
Message: Posted by: goodingda (May 13, 2018 11:52AM)
I'm a big fan of cut and restored ribbons and this is one of the best! Would love to see you put this on the market!

I have the Richard Gerlitz version which costs $$$$, if you can find one, and it is a pain to set up. Plus, the theme is not nearly as good as the clock!

Personally, I like the solid black plastic. Not sure how much wood adds to the value, since it is such a great and unique trick!
Message: Posted by: Payner44 (May 23, 2018 04:00PM)
I just took possession of this trick in Black/Red with red ribbon. It is very well made and fun to perform. Completely examinable!
Message: Posted by: simcoscor (May 25, 2018 02:29PM)
Hi Mroek,

I received my Ribbon Clock Time Machine earlier this week and had the chance to learn the MO and play a bit with it, and I think it is FANTASTIC!

You really did a great job, all around! The effect in itself is great, the inner workings are brilliant, and the story / the idea of a clock that goes back in time makes everything looks so logical (or illogical? ;)) ... It is a pleasure to perform!

It looks like an Ultimate Tenyo Trick (It would definitely have been the centerpiece of their magic line)!

The principle behind is somewhat similar to the ribbon masterpiece made by Richard Gerlitz - Family Ties, which I had the chance to buy from him almost 10 years ago – but with your version I like the fact that no base is needed.

I will need some more practice to be able to set everything rapidly, but I should get the knack pretty soon...

So thank you very much for giving us the opportunity to own such a beautiful effect, congratulations for your creativity and workmanship, and let’s hope that you will strike again in a near future!

Simon :)
Message: Posted by: J M Talbot (May 25, 2018 07:04PM)
Payner44 sent me a photo of his and his thoughts.... it convinced me to order one as well. An idea for a presentation hit me today that I am excited to try! Will share with any purchasers that are interested once I have had a chance to field test it :-)

Great to hear that you are impressed as well Simon.

I ordered the black version which really reminds me of "bakelite" clocks from the 50's....

https://www.google.ca/search?q=bakelite+clock&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjd1YXHyaHbAhUn0YMKHU9eBakQ_AUICigB&biw=1536&bih=760

The perfect look and feel for the presentation I want to do.

John
Message: Posted by: Payner44 (May 25, 2018 07:26PM)
John, good move ordering one of these and I am happy to receive your presentation idea in my Inbox whenever you want to sent it my way! :)

Steve
Message: Posted by: MrWizard (Jul 13, 2018 04:58AM)
This is an astounding design for a cut and restore ribbon effect. The black and red model is perfect like it is. If you want it to resemble wood then wood infused PLA would be the way to go I would think. Don't see it mentioned that the black and red model has a clock wind up type removable key on the back to turn back time which I think was a great addition to this item. You can have it on the shelf set up ready to go if someone asks what's that and looks great on display. A perfect new design from a perfect new designer. Congrats on a simply fantastic looking and convincing new prop. :bg:

Richard
Message: Posted by: lnlver (Jul 29, 2018 10:07AM)
I rate these cut-ribbon-and-restored tricks primarily on the basis of the length of the original ribbon to the length of the final ribbon. The closer they are to each other, the better the trick.

I have seen a few of these where the final ribbons turn out to be 30% longer than the original one, or so it seems to me.

But this is a top notch effect.
Message: Posted by: mroek (Jul 29, 2018 12:00PM)
I agree that the ribbon lenght should be the same before and after, and that's true for this trick.
Message: Posted by: MeetMagicMike (Aug 2, 2018 07:10PM)
That is a fantastic prop. As clever as any Tenyo trick. Beautifully designed and executed.
Message: Posted by: goodingda (Aug 4, 2018 11:06AM)
The Ribbon Clock is, IMO, the best cut-n'-restored ribbon effect ever devised! The big innovation over Gerlitz's "Family Ties" is the elimination of the base, and the fact that the ribbon remains in-line as it runs thru all three pieces, not to mention the fact that the ribbon is wider and therefore more visible than "Family Ties". I have "Family Ties" and I don't think I will every use it again!

The only down side to this trick is the required set-up time. When I first got the prop, it took me well over 1/2 hour to set it up. I have since learned to set it up in 10 minutes with no fumbling around. There really is a learning curve to this, but it is well worth the investment as it is a killer effect!

Dave
Message: Posted by: mroek (Aug 8, 2018 03:55AM)
Goodingda, you really put a smile on my face with that review, thanks! And regarding setup time, I think I've been down to around 5-6 minutes, but 10 minutes isn't too bad considering the effect when showing it to people, IMO.
Message: Posted by: Payner44 (Aug 8, 2018 06:31AM)
5 minutes or less is about what it should take for set up and, as others have stated, we’ll worth the time!
Message: Posted by: J M Talbot (Aug 13, 2018 09:07AM)
Finally had time to work with the Ribbon Clock on Sunday, Very cool prop! I will admit it took me awhile to get it working the first time but eventually worked everything out. Can see a 5 minute set-up being feasible now. Couple of shots below... I will be using a white ribbon as it fits my routine, also added some black velvet to the base of the pieces.

My routine is a little off the wall. The clock will be presented as an old souvenir piece commemorating the accidental plane crash death of Buddy Holly (early Rock and Roll icon) in 1959. The fact that the clock is in three pieces is perfect as along with Buddy Holly, Ritchie Valens and The "Big Bopper" also tragically died in the plane. It was just the three of them and the pilot. At the time the Big Bopper had a hit called "Chantilly Lace"... the white ribbon represents a piece of Chantilly Lace holding them together. The clock is frozen at the time of the plane crash on February 3rd , 1959.

I will talk about how fans would love to go back in time and hear them sing again (turn the clock hand backwards)... I will then recite a few lyrics from Chantilly Lace as I pull the restored white ribbon from the clock. I may change the dial to incorporate an image of Buddy Holly to help set the mood.

Congrats on a great piece!

[img]https://i.imgur.com/xWXier1.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/HnrqsgT.jpg[/img]
Message: Posted by: goodingda (Aug 15, 2018 08:04AM)
Thanks John for sharing your ideas. There are so many possibilities this prop!


I am still enamored by this trick! I am a mechanical engineer by profession, and so I took the clock to work the other day to show my co-workers. This is my ultimate test for a magic trick! These people are really smart and very hard to fool. No one could figure it out! Several people had bits and pieces of how it worked but no one had the complete solution.

What makes this trick such a fooler is that there are a number of principles working together. The odds of some one figuring everything out are nearly impossible. With most tricks, it's one, maybe two things that constitute the secret, so it is a whole lot easier to discover how it works.

Dave














that's the secret, and if you discover wh
Message: Posted by: Ustaad (Sep 3, 2018 08:02PM)
I just happen to stumble upon this thread and I fell in love with The Ribbon Clock Time Machine - It was love at first sight. ;)
[b]When I saw you I fell in love, and you smiled because you knew. - [i]William Shakespeare[/i][/b]

The Red-n-Black clock with its White dial looks so elegant but at the same time it's so mysterious in its working.

I straightaway shot a PM to John (J M Talbot) for his valuable advice and opinion on the prop. John promptly responded and gave me his green signal. I then PMed Mroek, the creator of this wonderful mind boggling prop, and I got a very favorable reply (lucky ME! :)). THANK YOU Mroek.

I liked John's presentation idea. Also I liked his idea of fixing black velvet to the base of the prop. Thank you John for sharing your ideas.

I can see the future of this wonder clock - It will be a collector's PRIDE. ;)

:xmas:
Message: Posted by: Ustaad (Sep 12, 2018 11:58AM)
Today I received the [b]Ribbon Clock Time Machine[/b] (probably this was the last one available). It's a mind boggling prop.

The written as well as the video instructions are very nicely done. I had no problem in setting up the whole prop quickly. Threading of the ribbons was quite easy for me. Overall a very well thought out and produced prop. Works like a charm. IMO the 'Ribbon Clock Time Machine' is a magicians fooler. I believe, if one can fool a magician he can fool the world. I can very well visualize that a lot of time and effort has gone into building each prop, its highly labor intensive. Mroek has done great job including the 3D printing.

If one watches the demo video, you will notice that unlike many other versions of similar effect, in this version while restoring the ribbon, you don't have to hide the RIBBON at any stage during the course of the effect. This I feel is a good invention in itself.

Being into Magic for over half a century, thousands of effects/ props/ books etc. have passed through my hands - some good and some not so good. And I can say that this is one the BEST trick I own. The 'Ribbon Clock Time Machine' is one of my prized possessions and has a very prominent place in my Magic man-cave. The 'Ribbon Clock Time Machine' will be the PRIDE of any magic prop collector.

My thoughts on this wonder [b]Ribbon Clock Time Machine[/b].

:xmas:
Message: Posted by: Ustaad (Oct 5, 2018 06:32PM)
Recently I and my family were on a short vacation (in the States). During our rip I got the opportunity to perform (as a test run) [b]The Ribbon Clock Time Machine[/b] for a few family friends (that included three veteran magicians as well). The performance went very smoothly. This little marvel was designed and manufactured (using 3D Printing) by one of our Café members 'mroek'. I used mroek's patter with slight modification. The effect was quite baffling for all including the three veterans. The overall effect was perplexing and had a great impact on the small audience. They all went home with one question lingering in their minds - [b] How’s that possible?[/b]

One of the magicians did mention that he had seen a similar prop but did not know its exact method/working (I have managed to keep the secret of the Ribbon Clock Time Machine safe with me). The prop in question was Sea-Ling’s Family Ties by Richard Gerlitz https://www.martinsmagic.com/allmagic/close-up/sea-lings-family-ties-by-richard-gerlitz/

For the lovers of good and beautiful magic, I highly recommend [b]The Ribbon Clock Time Machine[/b] - it’s a Master Piece. As of now the wonder prop is no longer available, but in case, at a later date, [b]IF[/b] it becomes available please grab one and you will be happy that you did.

:xmas:
Message: Posted by: mroek (Oct 6, 2018 05:07AM)
Thank you very much for the kind words, Ustaad! I'm happy your performance went well! I've also been told by other buyers that this is a trick they really enjoy performing, and that they get good reactions from it!
Message: Posted by: lnlver (Oct 15, 2018 09:26AM)
I think I have figured out how this is accomplished. Whether or not I can build this is another question, but I'm working on it.
Message: Posted by: holbeny (Aug 20, 2019 06:03PM)
Where can I buy one?
Message: Posted by: Woodini (Oct 29, 2019 01:17PM)
Very nice. I hope it is coming to a magic shop sometime soon.