Hi,
I have a few wood turned cups and wands from RNT2 and others and was wondering what the best way to condition and maintain the wood would be to avoid cracking etc.
Is Tung oil the way to go?
I would ask Jake, but the guy works 25 hours a day and has enough to cover.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff

Jeff,
for darker woods, even some lighter woods I recommend Teak oil over Tung. Allow to dry overnight min. 24 hours then buff with a cotton cloth.

Jake

Jake:

Why the preference of Teak over Tung?

Thanks.

Terry

Thanks Jake!
Can I pick that up at Home Depot?

You can get it at Home Depot, most of them, I know Lowes and Woodcraft have it as well.

Terry,
I've found that Teak brings out the grain better, absorbs better than Tung and polishes quite nicely with less build up than Tung. It's really a personal preference, but I just seem to get better results with Teak Oil especially on rosewoods, ironwoods and the denser ebonys.

Jake

I wonder whether Teak oil is available in other countries. Are there any grade differences in Teak oils? Which brands do they come in? Any preferred brands?

Here is an interesting article about Teak oil:

http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/29.htm

and another that has a differing opinion.

http://www.classicteak.com/teakoil.html

Wouldn't linseed oil be good?

This is an old thread, but needs a better answer:

You should first find out with what finish the wand/cups are finished.
Putting an oil finish on top of a coated finish (lacquer, poly, shellac, etc) can make a mess, for these are not renewable finishes, with the exception of lacquer, which will melt into the previous finish(s). Mixing these finishes should be avoided.
Teak, tung and walnut oils are renewable finishes. These are absorbed into the wood, conditioning it against damage and preventing the wood from drying out. Tung oil is the best of these finishes, for it offers the most resistance to water, mold, etc. over any of the other oil finishes. After applying the oil and allowing it to soak in for 24 hours, check to see if the wood looks dry. If it shows sign of dry wood, then reapply. After the wood has soaked up as much oil as it can, the wipe it down and buff it with a sewn cloth buffing wheel. Using Tung oil in this fashion is how all of my wands are finished, to great reviews from the buyers.

Linseed oil is a difficult finish - and one that may not ever dry, leaving a sticky touch to the piece(s). I once used BLO (boiled linseed oil) on a jewelry box that I made and carved for my wife. More than a year later, it was still sticky to the touch. I ended up stripping off the BLO and refinished it in Tung oil. It was then dry and ready to use in 24 hours.

Polymerized oils dry faster. I get my stuff from Lee Valley.

And with all these finishes, be wary of oily drags and spontaneous combustion. Especially linseed oil.

Google it and learn about it so you can be safe. It is hazardous.