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Zachary Loyal user 275 Posts |
Hey friends,
Just got my copper Foxy 2.5's, and I have a couple questions... First, I've been using my Gazzo DIY wand and want to procure a professional wand. I have heard about metal tip wands marking cups, so should I stay away from metal tips? Also, I do the Vernon wand spin - does wand tips make a significant difference here? I've been looking at the Porper folding style wand and must say that I love it. Once it is locked, are there any issues with the joint disengaging or being weak? One more, unrelated question... I love a good patina. Should I still wash my cups with dish soap regularly, despite my wanting them to turn? What method yields the most consistent results? I try to contribute advice anywhere I can here on the Café, but I happen to know next to nothing about the C&B that I've avoided for so long. You're advice on any of these points is greatly appreciated.
Twitter:@Zachary_Heath
Instagram: @zachheathmagic |
Dave V Inner circle Las Vegas, NV 4824 Posts |
Zachary,
Of course Gazzo's a professional, and he still uses the tape wrapped drumstick. I think what you really mean is you want a "fancier" wand to go with your nice cups. Try a Tabman wand, especially the Bill Palmer style with cherry tips and brass bands. Not every combination is on the website. Ray can make it for you in sizes longer than 12", and he can add some weight to the tips to facilitate spinning. I like the 13" end weighted cherry model he made for me. http://www.tabmantables.com
No trees were killed in the making of this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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Zachary Loyal user 275 Posts |
Never meant to paint the Great Gaz in that light. In retrospect, I could have worded that a bit differently. But you figured me out, and you mentioned the other wand that I had my eyes on... Scary... I'll be sure to check that one out before I take the plunge on Porper. Thanks for the advice, Dave. If anyone else can bring me up to speed on some of my other points, much apreesh.
Twitter:@Zachary_Heath
Instagram: @zachheathmagic |
Michael J. Douglas Inner circle WV, USA 1645 Posts |
I don't have those cups, but copper's a soft metal, so I would assume any wand could leave marks if you beat around on them. As far as spinning a wand, I like to have a wand with some weight to it, but the main thing to keep in mind is balance; as long as it's fairly balanced, you should be good to go.
Michael J.
�Believe then, if you please, that I can do strange things.� --from Shakespeare�s �As You Like It� |
rannie Inner circle 4375 Posts |
Zachary,
The best method that yields results as far as even patina is concerned would be constant handling. You might want to rub the cups all over with your hands. Stop washing them and just keep on playing with them, making sure that your hand gets to touch every part of the cup. Our natural oils give it the best patina from my experience. I am known to get the cups to have even dark patina in record breaking time. Man, oh man... If I only lived nearby... It would be a cinch! Re the wand.... If you are worried about nicks and all.... get an all wood!
"If you can't teach an old dog new tricks, trick the old dog to learn."
-Rannie Raymundo- aka The Boss aka The Manila Enforcer www.rannieraymundo.com www.tapm.proboards80.net |
Zachary Loyal user 275 Posts |
Thanks, Michael and Rannie. What's your personal best on a rich patina, Ranmiester?
Twitter:@Zachary_Heath
Instagram: @zachheathmagic |
rannie Inner circle 4375 Posts |
Less than a week, Zach! Say about 5 days. The color begins to change dramatically on the second day. Then again, I do practice a lot, and it's a tropical country from where I am.
What I like to do is to polish them, then wash the oils with the same thing you use. Then, that's it.... just keep using it. Have fun. As long as you enjoy practicing or performing with them regularly... you will see the results in no time. Rannie
"If you can't teach an old dog new tricks, trick the old dog to learn."
-Rannie Raymundo- aka The Boss aka The Manila Enforcer www.rannieraymundo.com www.tapm.proboards80.net |
cupsandballsmagic Inner circle 2705 Posts |
Eric Hansen (papasmurf) has some very nice wands in stock now, I believe... PM him, he's a nice guy!
Another vote for Tabman, too. There's reviews of both wands here: http://www.cupsandballsmagic.com/Wooden-One-Piece-Wands.html |
Donnie Buckley V.I.P. Cleveland, Ohio 1123 Posts |
Zack, all RNT2 copper and brass cups are hand polished before they are sent out. The inventory will start to tarnish just being exposed to the air, so when you get them they have been brightly shined up. The polishing compounds I use will actually slow down patinization, so you should wash them to remove this protective coating if you want to let them turn.
Also, dry them immediately and thoroughly, water spots will give you an inconsistent look on the cups that you won't like. Just use dry paper towels so you are sure to remove all the excess water and not just smear it around. If you really want to strip them down to a clean no polish finish, which will speed up tarnishing, then dip them in a vinegar and salt solution. Bri has a great video on his website in which he preforms this procedure for you to see. Don't leave them in the vinegar though, you won't like the results. Do this prior to washing and drying them. Happy cupping. |
Bill Palmer Eternal Order Only Jonathan Townsend has more than 24312 Posts |
All the advice here has been excellent.
The main thing is to get the surface of the cups exposed to air and hand oils. Wash them thoroughly to degrease them. The vinegar and salt solution will help as well, but remember to rinse them afterwards. Re wands: Tabman makes a "Bill Palmer" wand that has copper banding. This would look great with those cups. To prevent damage, just don't pound on them. BTW, I have a Porper folding wand. It is very strong.
"The Swatter"
Founder of CODBAMMC My Chickasaw name is "Throws Money at Cups." www.cupsandballsmuseum.com |
Zachary Loyal user 275 Posts |
I talked to Ray from Tabman Tables today, and he's making up one of your style wands for me. Can't wait to get it. Maybe a Porper down the road to round out a collection, but I think this style wand will work well for me. Wooden tips will go easy on my cups, but the brass rings are there if I want a little more talk out of the cups. Are those rings also the weights, or are the weights inside the tips?
Twitter:@Zachary_Heath
Instagram: @zachheathmagic |
Bill Palmer Eternal Order Only Jonathan Townsend has more than 24312 Posts |
I don't know. I think the rings are the weights. It doesn't take much.
"The Swatter"
Founder of CODBAMMC My Chickasaw name is "Throws Money at Cups." www.cupsandballsmuseum.com |
Dave V Inner circle Las Vegas, NV 4824 Posts |
I figured the weights were pins used to help hold the pieces of the wand together. The added weight was sort of a side effect.
No trees were killed in the making of this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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BSutter Special user Sitting on a pile of 582 Posts |
Quote:
On 2009-11-28 15:29, Michael J. Douglas wrote: Just a side note, pure copper is relatively soft. Cups are not made from pure copper, but rather an alloy containing copper as a major constituent. This alloy (there are many to choose from) is pretty tough. Looking back, wheat backed pennies are pure copper, and they held up rather well. Bill |
raywitko Special user western Pa 527 Posts |
Quote:
On 2009-11-28 22:30, Zachary wrote: The weights are the pins inside the tips. I use different diameters and lengths depending on what type of weight is needed. Yours has 3/16" dia. brass pins about 3" long. Your wand went out today. Ray
Sometimes it seems there are more than one of me.
Tabman USA magicdmv email me at [email]fursclass@magicdmv.com[/email] |
Bill Palmer Eternal Order Only Jonathan Townsend has more than 24312 Posts |
Those should do a dandy job! Ray's wands are really nice.
"The Swatter"
Founder of CODBAMMC My Chickasaw name is "Throws Money at Cups." www.cupsandballsmuseum.com |
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