I learned how to split cards a few weeks ago (after failing horribly over and over), and now a new problem has presented itself.

I tried making a double-facer with a glue-stick, and it didn't work out too well. Is there a special type of glue one should use in this type of project? Or is there a special method to this?

If anybody could post some tips or advice I would greatly appreciate it.

What I found to work well is rubber cement. It is a glue that is designed to glue paper together. The cards won't wrinkle.

Apply a thin layer of glue to both surfaces. Let the glue dry before pasting the two parts together. Alignment is critical because this glue bonds on contact. The way to make sure the two sides are properly lined up is by placing the tops of both halves against a board. Push the two halves together so that the long sides touch. When they touch, you can close one onto the other. This is like closing a book. The two parts of the card will now be glued and lined up. Place the new card under some heavy books to complete the bonding process.

I use a type of liquid glue for paper.
But, if I just apply it, I get an uneven surface of glue, which results in bumps.
I had great success using a small painting brush with real fine hairs.
Nir

I've used both "stick glue" and rubber cement with success.

With a glue stick, if you are getting tiny bumps in the surface, it's probably due to paper fibers that stick up when you pull the card apart. You can minimize them by scraping both halves with a knifeblade before gluing. This will remove some of the fibers and make the rest lay down.

I've found this to be a lesser problem with rubber cement (I suspect the liquid lays them down when you brush it on?), but I still scrape before gluing, just in case.

It also helps to roll the freshly glued card. I use a large dowel, but have used the rubber cement bottle in a pinch. Just roll it like you would pizza dough. Turn it over and roll the other side to get the curl out. Then let dry under pressure.

Now that I've already second-guessed...what was wrong with your first efforts?

Thank you Chris, Nir, and DoctorAmazo for your advice and tips.

I learned my method of splitting cards from Expert Card Technique. But when I read the tutorial on card splitting I totally missed the section titled "Making Double-Faced Cards". I first noticed it after I made this post, and read through it. It gives advice on how to glue layers together. Actually, its advice is very similar to the advice you guys gave. It suggests using rubber cement and rolling the air bubbles out afterward. It also mentions scraping the rough fuzzy stuff off so the card will not be very bumpy, and flattening the card out when you are done.

I guess I'll use rubber cement and remember to scrape the paper fibers off with a knife. I'll also roll the air bubbles out of the newly constucted card. I'm going to have to work on aligning the layers perfectly (I did have some trouble with that), but I'll take Chris's advice.

Thanks to everyone who posted.

Doctor Amazo, the first time I tried gluing the layers of split cards together, they didn't line up perfectly. I tried again, and ended up with tons of bumps on the surface. I tried again, and the whole thing was sticky. (Actually, I got more than one of the above on each trial, but you get what I mean, the whole thing was a mess.)


Emily B.

Emily--

Been there....lol

Another spot to look is In routined Manipulation- Ganson. He goes over spliting cards pretty well.

Although I have not used it yet, there is a heat fusing material availible in fabric/craft stores that might work. I did use Saran plastic wrap and an iron some years ago but the results wre inconsistant.

Most of the time rubber cement, applied to both faces, was all it took. Do scrape the cards, a single edge razor blade or a utility knife blade work best.

I found a scraper at a paint store that holds razor utility knife blades and it works very well. Think scrape, not shave. The blade is dragged along at almost 90 degrees, that way it does not dig in.

Hiya, Emily:

Both Elmer's and 3M make spray adhesives that are perfect for card doctoring (I use the Elmer's when shimming). Shake, spray a light coat on mating surfaces, and press together while slightly tacky.

Here in Cali, the Elmer's runs about $4 a can, the 3M, about $9. You can use a wallpaper seam roller for the pressing, about $5. Try Lowe's or Home Depot, but for Heaven's sake, don't expect any 'customer service' at either one!

Leland Edward Stone

I use a 3M spray adhesive that seems to work great. I, too, tried the glue-stick approach and that went kerplunk. After glueing, I press them under some heavy books for at least 24 hours. Seems to keep them nice and flat.

The heat fusing material is dry mount for photos. You can get this at any good art supply store by the sheet. Heat melts the material and gives a surface with no bumps and voids. Good stuff, give it a try....Mike

In a pinch, as most of my local art stores also do framing, and are not into letting us DIYers have the dry mount, I find that going to the fabric store for fusible web sheets works well too! Use the iron, but watch the steamer holes; they make odd bumps. A pair of cookie sheets with the card between and the iron on top help eliminate this problem, then add a couple books when done to keep all flat.

Hey Emily,

For smoothing out the split card try to use a green 3M pad. Just rub it back and forth and it will smooth it out nicely.

I use Elmers Rubber Cement Stock # E904....make SURE you get this one. The other one will NOT WORK! You can check for the Reorder # on the back label.

You can alos use two-sided tape just as well. It is easier but it does add a touch more thickness.

Hope this helps a bit....

Ed

You should try wet splitting maybe just as an experiment. The center layer turns into a liquidy mush. So when you unpeel the cards, there are only two layers to deal with and the "mush" dries later so there is no gluing. So the "mush" will hold the two backs together when making double backed cards. I've made quite a few gaft cards this way and I use them.

If you are going to try this you should know that when soaking, most of the "mush" will stay on the half that was facing down when soaking. Also, when I say "mush" most of this is attatched the the cards. It's hard to describe the substance really.

yes use only non-wrinkle rubber cement, I use elmer non rinkle rubber cement

Click here to view attached image.

I tried using the glue-stick, but the cards ended up stiff. What's happening?

There's a new DVD out on card splitting, believe it or not. Haven't seen it or read any reviews yet but it looked interesting.

Craig

Yo Craig, that dvd is by marty martini and is EXCELLENT. I have had the good fortune to see him do this lecture 3 times now. The acrobatic card info alone is worth the price of the dvd. check it out, it is very very good.
S.

I have to agree with Steve on this....The DVD is AWESOME!

The Art of Card Splitting gives you all the information on splitting cards you could ever need. I for one have started making cards on my computer (starting to set up everything at least) which I'm sure will work great since I have a laser printer. But, when I used to split cards, rubber cement (being the standard glue) works great. Having them dry in a book doesn't work very efficiently as I have been told otherwise. I have two pieces of perfectly flat aluminum which I clamp together with the card inside. The Art of Card Splitting suggests plexiglass, but the metal I'm using works fine.