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Cody S. Fisher V.I.P. Austin, Texas 1194 Posts |
What would be the best type of projector to use for corporate / banquet room type shows...for the purpose of projecting a card trick onto a screen? Does anyone have any advice on brand, Lumens?, etc.
Thanks, Cody S. Fisher
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Dennis Michael Inner circle Southern, NJ 5821 Posts |
Cody,
Since I have done this for years here is a link for you: Boxlight Projectors In todays Market there is more to consider than just a projector. One must think of long range goals with it. I bought mine 10 years ago and I'm still on the same bulb. (Bulb life expectancy is very important because replacement bulbs can cost hundreds of dollars) I bought a replacement bulb $500, and still have it. I use my projector now in my home theater. Saving on price is not the best if you want quality projection. Nowadays, one must consider if they want high definition projector like HD TV. By studying each projector high end pricing, you get a feel for what is the best. The higher the lumens, the more room light can be on. I can pretty much leave all the lights on in the room except for those directly above the screen. This allows students to take notes and see their books. Under no circumstances, except if you get one for free, do you buy one less than 1,500 lumens. Anything less and the room needs darkening. Like Cars, do you want a Chrysler or the Pontiac version. Top of the line, Rolls Royce version, is not necessary. InFocus, Proxima, Epson, and Sony are top of the line projectors if that is the route you want to take. Boxlight is a different covering, from what I was told, on the Proxima projectors. It is easy to get wrapped up into all the cool features in today’s projectors. Your "wallet" determines the price figure. Like computers, you can go for the $500 Dell, HP, or CompUSA brands, but you will not be able to run games on them. A decent graphics computer will cost over $2,000. This holds true with projectors. Get what you want that serves multi purposes. I can project a close-up routine, on a 14 foot x 18 foot screen using my digital camera, composite video connection with great clarity so everyone can see the routine, not just the front row. Back then my projector cost $5,000 and is obsolete by today’s standards, but it has great lumens! Lumens was my first criteria, and bulb life expectancy was the second. I hope this makes sense to you. You could even get free consultation if you call Boxlight.
Dennis Michael
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James Munton Inner circle Dallas, TX 1199 Posts |
Cody,
Good advice from Den as usual. Like computers, these thing improve so much and so quickly that the latest models are going to be way better than anything that is recommended here. The best way to go is to do rear projection where the projector is behind the screen. That way, you don't have to worry about someone in the front row standing up. It looks much more professional to have the projector hidden out of sight. You want to look for a model that doesn't need to be set too far back in order to provide the size image you need. The closer you move the projector to the screen, the smaller the image will be. The newer models can be placed much closer to the screen. These guys are great: http://www.projectorpeople.com/ You should work out what size screen you want and the typical size of the room before you call and they'll give you all the advice you need. As you have probably found out, renting these things from the hotel is ridiculously expensive and after four or five times renting one, you could have bought a new one. Cheers, James |
Dennis Michael Inner circle Southern, NJ 5821 Posts |
Any projector can project from the rear, the key is either flip the picture prior to loading it into a projector. (Flash cards or iPod can store this). Newer projectors have the ability to flip it.
The drawback is you need to buy a rear projection screen. Most conferences still have the larger 30 feet x 40 feet screens or some type of large screen that comes down out of the ceiling. Just another option. Most projectors do have a decent "Throw Distance" but this is not as important as lumens and bulb life expectancey. (The newer ones do have a decent life expecency and the bulbs are a lot cheaper.) Be careful of buying close-out models, you don't need a projector that you can't get a bulb for. This point is sometimes overlooked. Once you educate yourself on these points, it becomes tough to pick out a projector. The links on the projector page help educate you on the termology. Do you want free standing and/or computer links, wireless/Remote control, HD, computer hookups, flashcards, etc.? Boxlight lets you chose by:
At a quick glance: BOXLIGHT CD-727x $1,900 is a good starting place. One can go up or down from this point depending on budget. I did a quick comparison of the above starting point with many of the top of the line projectors by the Projector People, and it beats every one!
Dennis Michael
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Cody S. Fisher V.I.P. Austin, Texas 1194 Posts |
Thanks guys...I REALLY REALLY appreciate the information that you both took the time to give me. I now have a better idea of what I need. Thanks again for all the GREAT advice. Please let me know if I can ever return the favor...
Cody S. Fisher
To Sign Up For My Members Only FREE Monthly Videos Visit: www.CodyFisher.com/store
Cody's Comedy Confabulation / Silk-2-Egg / Killer Prediction / Tossed Out Deck / Comedy Book Test / Las Vegas Aces / Three Ropes & 1000 Laughs |
Dennis Michael Inner circle Southern, NJ 5821 Posts |
Lets us know your choice.
Den
Dennis Michael
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David Bilan Special user Clarksville, TN 714 Posts |
As Den pointed out, bulbs are a killer on the budget. Once you've made our purchase, be a fanatic about turning off the bulb and letting the fan run for 10 minutes or so. It makes a great difference in the life expectancy of the bulb.
This is one time that it will pay to read your manual from cover to cover (in whatever language you choose.
Yes, I am a magician. No I did not make my hare (hair) disappear... it just took early retirement.
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plainman007 Special user 630 Posts |
HI Guys. Good thoughts. Ill anyway add something here by saying. Your also going to need a function called Keystone Correction. The simplest way to understand this is by the fact that you don't have to have your projector at exact center dead on to your screen. Like if your having your projector on a stand on the floor. Chances are your screen is going to be much higher than head level. In a situation like this a projector without keystone will throw a picture that will be wider at the top and hence not give an exact rectangle. key stone will correct this warpage allowing images to be projected in a normal proportion. Then comes native wide screen. The in thing today. Most video is changing into widescreen because the human eye perceives more towards the sides than top to bottom. This widescreen is known as 16:9 aspect ratio. You material will look much more film like if you get one of these. Watch out ! there's a difference between WIDESCREEN CAPABLE and NATIVE WIDESCREEN. Native widescreen is the way to go where there are no black bars on the top and bottom. The LCD panel inside the projector itself will be in a widecreen ratio (hence the name NATIVE). Then comes the options of LCD, DMD (digital micro mirrors) and DLP (Digital Light Projectors). Ive heard DLP gives good results. But also watch out for refresh rate artifacts. Which means when something moves in the picture. The image will seem to stutter. As if a few frames were lost. This jittery movement is known as motion artifacts. Then comes jagged line artifacts. Where if you were looking at a scene with a house roof that slopes. he projector wont handle that slope image well and you will see the staircase effect (jagged lines also known as aliasing lines) Find a good projector that overcomes these defects and you'll have a good investment. I was amazed by a very nice projector by Hitachi. As small as a burger box. I think its called 515 or something. Sharp notevision is also good. Good luck in your buy. A projector is a very good investment you can ever make for your act.
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