The way I do it is put a lot of pressure with a pencil on the table and run it over the cards real hard. How about you?

I'm just now starting to learn card manipulation and I would recommend you have a look at Jeff McBride's "The Art of Card Manipulation Vol. 2". He gives you his method of preparing the cards for manipulation. I know he strips some of the surface off the cards and makes them very plyable, then he adds fanning powder. I have yet to try it because my favorite magic dealer does not like, nor carry, fanning powder. I'm still working on this myself but have a look at Jeff's video or DVD if you can. Hope this helps. - Lee.

I use a ruler. It rips them pretty well. After I do all the rest of the prep, I hold the deck between my thumb and fingers and bend the deck back and forth. It helps to further break in the cards and helps to increase hand strength.

I also use the scraping technique from McBride (also from Lewis Ganson) with a pencil or ruler on both sides of the cards and from nearly every angle. Then I bend the cards in my hands (individually and in packets). I don't use any powder as I don't like it. Then I pop the decks in to my Nielsen card press and leave them in there for a day or so as tight as I can screw it. If you have a workshop you could just as easily use blocks of wood and clamps, but for my situation the card clamp is the bees knees.

I use the ruler method and a Nielsen card press. It works great. One application of the powder after you've scraped them all down will help loosen them up some. You don't have to use it though.

Cheers

I first faro the cards a whole lot. Both regularly and from the sides. This helps to wear the edges. Then I do the McBride/Ganson thing followed by powdering (not every deck I use is powdered) Then a Neilsen press for a few days.

I only powder fanning decks and flourish decks. I don't powder my manipulation decks so that I can do moves quicker. I use Bees.

Joe

I use the McBride way, it's probably the best, because it seems like it worked for him very well.

-Chris

I perform magic professionally, I do card manip, fanning, single productions, everything. I prefer to buy used cards from the Vegas Casinos, I never powder them, and I prepare them by springing them, maybe doing some one handed shuffles, just to break them in a little bit. I'm from the school of Jeff Sheridan (who actually taught McBride) and I don't like using manip cards. Too expensive and hard to get. I strongly recommend using the casino bee cards. The Monte Carlo even has brown back bee cards, although it is not necessary, red backs are fine. I find my fans are bigger with casino cards, also I get the nice "snap" with single manip.

Maritess
http://www.girliemagic.com

As stated in previous posts of mine, I don't use fanning powder. I used to prepare the cards the way Ganson described in 'Routined Manipulation' with the pencilscraping method. I find that the cards get a little too supple and that interferes with other flourishes including card spinning. Also, I find that production methods such as the Snap Production are not as robust when you are working with "softer" cards. Before each practice session or performance I wash my hands thoroughly so they are free of any greasy or slippery substance. This assures a good grip when fanning during splits and prevents greasy material from getting on your cards. If you must use fanning powder use it sparingly. I use Hoyle Poker Size Red Diamond Back Professional Gambling Cards for all my manipulation work. For me, I start with a new deck and break it in the old fashioned way by working with it.

Don't use

I prefer using manipulation cards for this But I use a card grip stick to prepare the card instead of fanning powder. This alowes me to do card productions faster and it gives the cards a little more springiness (is that a word) to them wich help in productions like the perfect production from the McBirde tapes.

Jonas Karlsson
Vibono Magic
Sweden

I use manipulation cards. Murphys are my favorite.

I have a siumilar method that I use that seems to work well for me. It is described in the McBride tapes in pretty good detail but I add a few other points of business that seem to work well for me.

I use a side of a table. I hold the card flat on the surface and apply pressure from above. Then with the other hand I pull outward and down over the table edge. What this does is breaks the wax coating that is applied to most cards and starts to make them more playable. I do this for both long and shirt sides and also diagonally to every card. This then is repated on the reverse side.

When it is done, the cards look pretty horrible. Not to worry as you can fix this easily. I then work the cards in my hand by bending them back and forth and getting my hands use to the feel of the cards.

After I get comfortable that the cards are worked in well, I place them in a card vice or between two heavy books and leave them overnight. Come morning your cards will heave straightened out again but will still be playable to the touch.

Fanning powder can be added at this time if needed. If your using fanning powder, it is easiest to do it outside by placing the cards into a clear plastic bag and then adding the powder into the bag. Then simply shake the cards a few times to get them well coated.

magic4u02 has it very well said. Before I used my murphys, I did it a very similar way.

Evan: Thanks for the kind words. This is just a system that has really worked out well for me.

I often used bicycle cards as I used to combine regular card manips along with jumbo card productions. The problem was that they do not make Neilson or Burton cards in Jumbo back format.

I wanted to be able to show the backs of the cards so that everything matched. This forced me to learn a good way of breaking the cards in for ease is use.

The system is very similar to McBrides as well as been mentioned in several books and manuscripts that I have.

Try it out and see what works best for you. The idea is to get the wax coating off the cards, make them plyable and always work with the cards in your hand to get them use to the feel.

I use the Peter Marvey manipulation deck. It is great for people with small hands and otherwise. As with most manip. decks, this one is bridge size. I just add a little fanning powder and I'm on my way!
Cole

I use McBride's new system, which is to give the deck numerous faro shuffles and lepaul spreads. This breaks in the cards from both sides. Then, he does his whole act with the cards to further break them down.

I guess we are all in the same agreement that however you work in the cards, the idea is to brak the wax coating down a bit and to make the cards easily bendable and plyable.

The idea is to get the cards not to give you so much resistance when in the backpalm position.

Also I think we all agree how important it is to work the cards into your own hand. Use them, bend them and work with them to get yourself use to them before any performance.

Exactly. That sums it up right there.