I've been practicing a DL that involves using the side of your right index finger to pull up and flick two cards. I'm not sure if its called the Srike DL, Instant DL, or what, but is uses very little if any get-ready.

The problem that I had been having is the consistency of getting two cards each time. In spite of constant practice, I never got the accuracy above 90%. But earlier today, I discovered a slightly different handling that has already increased by accuracy to over 95%. I aplogize if it's already been deeloped or described by someone else, but here it is:

I had been beveling the top of the deck to the right before hitting (and subsequently lifting) the top two cards with my right index finger. Now I first place the side of my finger next to the deck, THEN bevel the cards into my right index finger. This gives me much more accuracy. Maybe because it gives my index finger more time to FEEL the thickness of the cards as well as more tactile feedback to adjust the amount of pressure my index exerts on the side of the deck. If it feels too thin, I press a little harder and get an additional card. If it feels too thick, I ease off and get "less card."

It works for me. I hope it will be useful to others. Let me know.

Henry

I had always been told that this type is called the hit double, I may be wrong but that is what I have alwas called it. I have alwasy beveled the deck when I use this double, as you noticed, it is a lot easier to do the DL this way. A thought for you, try ever so slightly start to lift the first then the second. With a beveled deck this should be easy.

There is so many double lift out there !!!

Go and get one that suits you, it is not that you suit to certain move...

Last comment : Be natural.

Symmatrix

I use this lift too. When I was first shown it I was told it was the strike double lift, since then I have been told it is Marlo's hit double.

The person who told me it was the hit also told me that the deck should be beveled. As I had learned it with a square deck I find beveling (while making sence) just makes it harder. Most likely because my hands got used to not doing it.

I also find it flows better if done with the middle finger. The first finger and thumb can take to the outer and inner right hand corners once the double has been raised a little, the left thumb then pushes and pivots the card(s) face up on top.

When using the strike double/hit double, I like to grip the cards with the right thumb on top of the right edge, the left first/middle/ring fingers just under the right edge, and dig the cards into my left palm and left thumb while keeping it square with the top of the deck. Then, before turning the double lift face up, I warp the cards up, then down. It gives a very audible "snapping" kind of sound.

I saw Gregory Wilson do this, and thought it to be a very good way of implying a single card.

Nice one Dulcimer.
I had great difficulty with a strike DL until I realised two things:
1) You can hold the deck at an angle so the side you are picking the double from (right side) is facing the floor somewhat).
2) Use the middle pad of your finger for the first card, lift that up quite a bit, then use your finger tip to get the second card. Let the top card slip down your finger to coalesce with the first card.

Its a very good DL as it can look very natural. Otherwise I do a mix between a Vernon method where the cards are pinched between the left finger and thumb, or an LJ snap double.

Loz, you really need to watch what you are doing when lifting the two card separately.

The first and most obvious thing to cover is the edge, you mention covering this by tilting the deck down. When I messed around with it I found it could really look like I was covering something when performing standing for a seated audience.

The second thing is when lifting these cards separately, there is usualy some sort of tell tale movement in the right hand, sometimes a jerk or an obvious double movement when there should only have been a single one.

It is due to these two points that I decided to just go for the whole feel thing. If you decide to stay with it fair enough, if you decide to go for feeling the double you will fing that the tip of the finger having far more nerve endings than the middle is the way to go.

I do the 'hit' double from the back of the deck (edge closest to my body). I riffle up to catch 2 cards with my thumb then immediately push forward about an inch (till the bottom left corner is into the base of the thumb. Then i pivot the cards using that bottom left corner as the pivot (ala david blaine to an extent). Key here is to get it so you start riffling from the 5th card or above. This way it's not questioned. I am a beginner to card magic and my friends have stared at my hands and can't see me doing it.

Hi eXcelon969 -
Try to avoid riffling up on the deck. It's completely unnatural and is a big tip-off that something fishy is going on.

The important feature of the "hit" double is that there is no get ready. It's one of the easiest of the "fairly natural" looking double lifts. “Hit” with your right index finger on the right long edge neat the inner right corner between your left 3rd and 4th fingers.

As stated above, the key to accuracy is beveling the deck to the right and then applying a bit of downward pressure with your left thumb. This keeps the cards from moving as you gauge the double. It also causes the deck to bow upward which also facilitates the move.

It’s probably obvious but the "hit" action also allows for an easy triple.

Riffling up on the cards to get breaks or set up for double lifts should be avoided like the plague. Video tape yourself and you'll see what I mean. The spectators may not know exactly what's going on, but they certainly are aware that you're doing something.

The same rule applies for TILT. I don't have the DVD's but I'll bet that Daryl teaches a one handed TILT get ready that will avoid that telltale thumb riffle. I have developed my own one handed get ready that works well for me. It also allows for one and two card breaks without the thumb riffle. The pinky count is great for this too. Again – avoid the infamous thumb riffle! If you are a beginner, learn to do it right at the outset and you won’t have to relearn later.

I have found that videotape is brutally honest - much more so than a mirror. Don't assume that spectators can't see fishy actions. If you see it on tape, the chances are high that the spectators will be aware that something is going on. This awareness will undermine the impact of what you do, even if they can't specifically identify what you did. Ask a non-magician friend to watch the video and tell you when things look fishy. It may surprise you how accurately they nail all the places where moves are being executed. It’s tough on your ego, but will make you a much better magician in the long run.

Mike

When learning this DL from Stars of Magic, I had a lot of trouble until I discovered this. The pressure of the left thumb helps a great deal in getting the double accurately.

-Jim

Thanks for the interesting replies. It seems like everyone has their own way of doing the DL.

I have a question for Jim and Mike. Can you elaborate on what you mean by "applying a bit of downward pressure with your left thumb. This keeps the cards from moving as you gauge the double. It also causes the deck to bow upward which also facilitates the move."

Could you describe this more specifically? For example, where you exert pressure with left thumb - upper left corner or middle of left side, or doesn't it matter?

Also, when I try it, I find that I have press very hard to make a difference. Should this be so?

Henry

Henry,
I, on the other hand, found your tip extremely helpful, and don't mind saying so.
Thanks!
Phil

You might want to give the Derek Dingle Double Lift a look (The Complete Works of Derek Dingle, Kaufman). It has no get-ready, and makes the 'hit' action a bit easier by re-locating it. In addition, it is a stud turnover, which provides for economy of motion.

The DD double is my 'workhorse' DL, and I know that I am not alone in this. However, if you never display the top card by means of a (real) stud turnover, then this might not be for you.