How are zombie foulard's measured? Diagonally or across one side? So if they say a zombie foulard is 36 inches in size, does that mean 36 inches from one dianogal corner to the next or 36 inches across one of the sides? Thanks!

Jim

Zombie foulards like all pieces of silk fabric, are generally measured at sizes before hemming. This would NOT be the diagonal measure in any case. It is the length of a side.

So a 30" foulard is 30" x 30". I would recommend a" finished" 30 or 31 inch foulard as the perfect size for most pre made gimmicks.B y 'finished', I mean that the fabric was originally 32" inches per side and the hem is rolled and sewn leaving a finished 31" cloth. Start with a 31" piece of cloth if you want the final product to be 30" square.

JNeal is right about the sizes. Figure most hemming will cut the finished size down about 1".

I have made several over the years for guys. You want the size of the cloth so the ball comes in to the center. Usually a 34" finished is about right. But if you have longer or shorter arms you have to adjust.

Richard

I second JNeal's recommendations!

My Finished sewn size is 30 inches

Due to making a smaller Gimmick for easier use
for me as the size has the ball centred on cloth etc

Make your cloth to suit your style & arm size as mentioned.....

Cheers

Although the late Great Neil Foster used the Rice's 36" Dragon Foulard, they are no longer available, as they were 2 silks sewn together, these silks were heavier mm count then the regular Dragon silk they sell.

I found a 30" easier to handle.

I have made double, three, and four layer silks for performers. All were made to help the foulard hang better and drape lower.

As per the Rice Foulard, Wm is correct. The Rice silk I believe was two 12 momme dragons. Maybe Ruth Rice can correct me if I am incorrect. The finished size would have been about 34". Thought Neil primarily used the dragon, I vaguely recall him using a tie dye silk at one show. It might have been something Bill Brewe made. But it was not his normal foulard.

Richard

If you are a taller performer with long arms,
you'll want to use a larger foulard, maybe 36".
If you are a small person maybe even 28" would work for you.
Take a gimmick you are comfortable with,
and wearing it, measure from the tip to your "grasp"
double that number and you have the inches across you'll want.
Whether you want a single or double thickness,
be sure the foulard material is opaque enough to hide light,
and that the quality of the material allows it to drape and move well.
It is best not to use too busy a pattern,
and no pattern that has an exact "center" as this will shift with the ball.
If you do a double, black is a good choice for the underside.
The main thing once you have good quality tools,
is to practice like all heck and carefully routine your presentation.

My thoughts,
Walt

Many years ago I took a 36" Rice starburst silk and a 36" Rice solid black silk to a seamstress and had them hand-sewn together to make a Zombie foulard. I had to go to a few different tailors before I found one who would do just what I wanted. I think some Zombie foulards are actually three 36" silks sewn together.

----- Amado "Sonny" Narvaez

Thanks, everyone. I have my normal foulard, which I think I made years ago to be 32 inches but I am making a new one for my winter show and thought I would revisit the size issue.

Jim

It certainly depends on the size of your gimmick - we make two sizes 30" and 32" for our Dream Zombie - some like the shorter gimmick - all in preference.

It also depends somewhat on the size of the ball. In addition to a standard 4" Zombie, I have also had the larger 5", and now have a 6" eyeball zombie. A larger ball "eats" more silk. I measure so the center of the ball is just a bit short of dead center, measuring from corner to center. That way the ball is a bit closer to center when riding on the top edge of the foulard.

Folard should be twice the length of your gimmak plus 2 inches.

Jim,

A general rule of thumb that I learned from Tony Slydini, who was also a real tailor, is that the right size silk for the magician is the largest that can be held with the arms crossed and the silk top edge at the waist without sagging. It will also be approximately your shirt sleeve size. For Tony who was also a small guy, that was 21". Probably 28-33 for most adult males is very practical.

With this particular trick, gimmick length is also going to matter.

Good Luck!

Bob Sanders
Magic By Sander

PS --- You also got very good information from the guys above about silk sizes. Always use the length of the hemmed edge of the cloth and never the diagonal size (even on diamond cut silks).

Thanks, Bob. I sewed my new zombie foulard on Friday morning. I wanted it for a mall show that afternoon, and I used it, but I am disappointed with it. It's the right size but I picked the wrong silks to use. It turned out too heavy and the black silk in back is kind of" stretchy" and it sags too when extended, I think, because of the weight and stretchiness.
The first foulard I made years ago was also too heavy (though not stretchy) but I used it until I made another, which is the one I usually use. I'm going to go back and try to buy lighter weight silk--red and black--and make another one.

Jim

James in LA, There are several places in LA the would have the perfect fabric for this Foulard. International Silks on Beverly (Two blocks from the Beverly Center) and Oriental Silk (also on Beverly and a block from International Silk). And of Course, F and S Fabric (on Pico ) on the Westside

Two layers of 8 momme china silk (one red, one black) sewn together will still flow well , not be too heavy, and giver reasonable opacity. Personally, I'd get two layers of 10 momme Habotai at Oriental Silk for greater coverage at slightly heavier weight.
None of the above fabrics will be stretchy as long as you cut the fabric with the grain.

Actually, the problem of the fabric separating and is more of an improper assemble then a weight issue.

To use what you have already made, just tack the silk together at several points.

We do not know how much expertise you have at sewing, I apologize if you are an experienced seamstress, but it sounds like you put silk with another material.

Did you sew the material together while pinned, then turned the material inside out and stitched a the edges again closed. Then ironed, after ironing did both pieces of material match exactly without any puckering.

Cutting is material the exact same size after taking the 'sizing' out of the material is the a prerequisite to not separating.

Ironing should be the 1st step, then cutting,then pinning all around the cloth, then sewing wrong side and remove pins as you come to them, then sew right side. Then iron again.

Learning from a spouse who is an expert professional seamstress. I still have a foulard she put a backing on years ago and it has never separated in the manner you have mentioned.

It took me 6 hours to sew my 1st dove bag and 5 hours to sew my 1st foulard.

Jonathan,
I got the silk from Chuck at F&S. I buy most of my silks there but I think I got the heavy weight red because it was so shiny and pretty. I don't blame Chuck at all. Do you know him?
WM,
I didn't go through all the steps you write about. Thank you. Very thorough. I did sew it inside out and then ironed it quickly. I did not stitch it again once right side out. I'll see what I can do with it to make it better. Thanks for all the advice!

Jim

I have never had to stitch in the centers. Stitch it together and turn it inside out. Run a top stitch along the edge and you should be good to go.

Richard

Richard, I only suggested this if Jim did not want to remove all the stitching and start over. A light stitch in the center was a temporary solution to his current scarf.