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The Magic Cafe Forum Index » » Polly wants a cracker... » » Structuring ones costume with wire and foam. (0 Likes) Printer Friendly Version

DJ Trix
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Hi,

I am interested in sourcing, either video or paper format, information that goes into creating a more solid structure of one's jacket/vest.

Are there sources concerning creating a more rigid structure of one's jacket/vest to prevent loads from creating a "bulge"? I have heard of stiffening material; is this the best avenue to traverse? What about wire framing? I have heard magicians have taken this route with great success. I don't have loads I am trying to conceal, but I don't want my vest to become disfigured do to other elements at play, such as movement, etc.

Also, what would one do with a dove tux to expand areas, say the center of the chest, so as to heigthen the illusion that loads are an impossibility in the edge of the lapel? I am looking into placing a foam into the lapel area to create depth, sinking the chest in, as I have loads there. This could be considered the opposite of what a dove worker would pursue, as they tend to build the chest out.

The best source I have come across to date is Tony Clark's 'Behind the Seams' DVD. I have also heard about Silk King Studios selling some notes containing wire structures of the magician's costume, but I have not purchased these notes.

Any help would be appreciated.

Good Day to you.
MikeHMagic
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You may want to look into using "boning" sold @ fabric stores. My friend uses it to make & shape bodices for the renn fairs.
Mike "Gus" Harvatt
"Bullwinkle that trick never works."
Jeffrey Korst
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Not completely sure I understand the question, but here goes:

First off, loads should be in the coat in such a way that the outer fabric drapes the load--as opposed to the outer fabric following the contour of the load.

Second, a tailor can put heavier interfacing (canvas) inside the coat making the whole thing stiffer.

Next, the front of the shirt can be padded out to meet the coat when the coat is loaded. BUT, then the coat can look "deflated" after the productions. That can be fixed with boning, wire or even metal strips (about 1/2"-1' wide) to keep the curve of the jacket consistent whether or not it's loaded.

If any of this is unclear, or if you have follow up questions, PM me.

I have not seen the Clark DVD, but I'd be surprised if he didn't go into most/all of this.

Best regards,

Jeffrey
Why, yes. I do need new pictures. Why do you ask?

Jeffrey Korst
San Francisco Bay Area Magician
DJ Trix
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Jeffrey, anything in print concerning this you have come into contact with?

I need to build out my vest edge, lapel edge, as my loads are in the center of my chest, the opposite course of the dove worker.

D~
Dave Scribner
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DJ, I also am not sure exactly what you are trying to do. Are you trying to increase the size of the vest in relation to your chest, and then remain in that position after the production?

Although dove related, you might want to contact Peter White at P&A silks. He has a very extensive set of instructions for the dove worker, highly centered around the proper way to enhance you jacket. They're pretty similar to Tony Clark's, but goes into a little more detail.
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Jeffrey Korst
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D-
There probably is stuff in print at this point, but I don't know of it. I learned it through oral tradition and trial and error.

Sounds like you need to pad under the vest lapel to meet the load, then rig the shirt so it doesn't deflate after stealing the load. Overall, it sounds a lot harder than the usual way.

Part of the idea is to hide the load under your pectorals, so to speak. They sit in the hollow of the body which helps keep down the bulging. There isn't much of a hollow in the center of most peoples chest. Also, the usual way just makes one look like you've got a well developed chest. Not sure how to hide a lump down the middle of your chest.

It's pretty tough to be more specific without seeing the costume and knowing more about what you're trying to load.

Best regards,

Jeffrey
Why, yes. I do need new pictures. Why do you ask?

Jeffrey Korst
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DJ Trix
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Basically, you have it right, Jeffrey. I have done quite extensive an study of dove work when I was working with doves; I am not anymore.

Basically, I am garbed in a romantic era costume with ruffled shirt. Not the ruffles which are small as a dove worker would use, like Lance, but long, full ruffles, like a woman's blouse. I hope we meet here in terms of the visualization of what this would look like. My loads are hidden in the ruffles, but I wanted to extend the vest edge, as I don't want the ruffles to look too pronounced, even though it is, perhaps, natural in terms of the design on the outfit.

Furthermore, I wanted to rigidify, slightly, the vest I am wearing, simply to have it keep its shape, but I figure a little stiffening material is the best route for this.

I might leave things as they stand now, but I am tying up loose ends and wanted to see if another had any insight into this.

And, good day to you all.



On 2010-02-27 03:51, DJ Trix wrote:
I'll contact P&A also. Thanks for this.
Jeffrey Korst
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Well, it sounds like you'll want to have the vest made with heavier than usual interfacing to keep it stiff, possibly padding the front (not just along the lapel, but tapered from there to the side seams) to push it out a little from your chest. This photo of Shimada kind of shows the effect of the stiff interfacing on the body of his tail coat. http://www.vikingmagic.com/ama/med/shimada.jpg

Then, find a way to make the ruffle area not collapse after you make the steals. This might be wire, it might be something else. It will depend on what won't get in the way of your loads/steals but still keep the ruffles in place.

On top of all that, you'll need to keep the ruffles from fluttering as you make the steal.
Why, yes. I do need new pictures. Why do you ask?

Jeffrey Korst
San Francisco Bay Area Magician
sperris
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Get Peter White's dove videos from P and A Silks.

Betty's Action Wear has several options she's used in dove jackets over the years if you're looking to have something made...
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DJ Trix
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Thanks to you all.

Betty is great, BTW.
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