Hi guys, I am looking for some good solid information on building an upscale pitch booth. Do you know of any good works on this subject?

I am not looking for a book or DVD that covers products to pitch or even how to pitch but a work that covers how to construct the stand in as much detail as possible. If the other items are in this work that is ok. My main focus is on the stand or the booth itself. Just to be clear.

I have done multiple searches and read the entirety of the Step Right Up section of this forum and all I found related to this topic is:

Table or Stand

http://www.themagiccafe.com/forums/viewt......um=192&5

http://www.themagiccafe.com/forums/viewt......um=192&4

Banners and containers

http://www.themagiccafe.com/forums/viewt......um=192&5

http://www.themagiccafe.com/forums/viewt......um=192&7

Mirror

http://www.themagiccafe.com/forums/viewt......um=192&8

Lighting

http://www.themagiccafe.com/forums/viewt......um=192&5


Any information that you can share is greatly appreciated. Or did I miss this topic while reading Step Right Up if so could someone point me in the right direction. Please

Many thanks in advance.

Bill

Bill:

I built my joint with the plans from Don Driver that came with the Svengali DVD. Also the DVD itself has a spot in it that's shows how the unit hinges together. I believe Don has posted photos of his joint on the Café in the past. I had photos of my joint on my old computer, but lost them when it crashed.

I will look around and see if I can find some other photos and e mail them to you.
Mine is plywood covered in red naugahyde, like Don's

ROD

Bill,

I emailed you some photos of different pitch joints I've collected - hope they help.

./sam

Someplace on the Café there is a thread about a guy who has a vinyl rear wall for his tent that looks like a set of red velvet curtains. It was VERY classy and sharp-looking. My guess is that it was hand-painted by somebody. I have seen painted drapes and drops that look like that, but they're made for indoor stage use and not outdoor tents.

BTW, I tried a solid rear wall and found that it inhibited air circulation. So I went with a 6' x 3' banner instead, which covers a lot but not all of the rear area, provides VERY good flash, and still lets the air in. You can see it in my avatar photo. If you wanted more flash and had more money, you could also go with an 8' x 4' banner instead, but it would be tougher to get up and down. I think the 6' x 3' size is really sufficient.

The E-Z Up tents are the standard, but frankly, I found them heavy and expensive. Plus, the cotton top offers no protection against the sun. I'd suggest a visit to a sporting goods store for a good straight-leg 10x10 tent with an inner UV liner. You should be able to find one on sale for $150 or less, with a wheeled carry bag to boot. And don't forget to buy a dozen round (not the cheesy V-shaped ones) steel stakes (four for the legs, four for the guy lines and four spares), and a claw hammer to pound them in and get them out. SETH

Rob Sam and Sethb Thanks I starting to have a better concept of the idea I want for my joint.

Also went to Don's site no paypal links. Aldo Don said David is now selling his stuff anyone know what Davids site address is?

Thanks

Bill,

Contact David here http://dondriver.net/contact/

Just email him and tell him what you want - he is most helpful

good luck

./sam

http://s1033.photobucket.com/albums/a420......20Joint/

That revised joint looks great Bill - how's it hold up on a windy day?

Congrats

./sam

I've been in some fairly heavy winds and so far it's been fine. You can't see it in the pictures but I have each of the four corners anchored down with a 50# weight, plus I can drive landscape spikes into the ground through the bottom fittings that hold the corner posts upright.

Seth: I used your wording on my newer, larger banners (took advantage of half-price sale at Half Price Banners), hope you don't mind!

Nice joint, Bill! I think the white also looks more open and inviting than the dark blue. Probably a little cooler, too!

Of course I don't mind that you used my wording on your banners . . . without your tip about Half Price Banners, I wouldn't have any banners at all! I thought that saying "Amazing Magic Tricks That YOU Can Do" neatly summed up Don Driver's good advice about the psychology of the pitch -- make it amazing (to get their attention), explain that even though it looks amazing, it's easy once you know the secret (to motivate them), and stress that THEY can do it (to GTFM).

BTW, I recently ordered two more 6' x 3' banners from Half Price Banners for my new indoor library magic show (starring Bennie the Bookworm, a/k/a Willie the Magic Worm!). This time I also got a background imprint (balloons) instead of plain white. As you said, I got both banners for the price of one, the idea being that I have a free backup if necessary. But based on my good experience with the outdoor use of their banners, I expect these indoor banners to last a very long time, unless some smart-aleck kid gives them a karate chop. The banner will hang from a portable stand that I put together with some 1/2" PVC pipe.

The banner should provide a classy backdrop and some free advertising at the same time, while also protecting the rear view of the show and keeping the angles down. While the worm, Egg Bag and Miser's Dream are basically angle-proof, some of the other stuff I will do (Temple Screen, Hippity-Hop Rabbits) is not. SETH

Hello Bill:

This is a great looking joint. Real flash! And your banners look great!

Hope your season is going well.

ROD

BTW Bill, those side pennants you have are a real nice touch -- some extra movement to attract even more attention and set your spot apart from the rest. The two-toned ones are especially nice, even when they aren't waving in the wind.

I used to run strings of those small multi-colored plastic pennants down the legs and guy lines of my tent, but they always looked a little cheesy (and were a pain to put up and take down, too). These big nylon pennants look a lot better, are easier to handle and also do a much better job.

They are not expensive, require just a little extra work to put up (use a capped 4-foot piece of 1/2" PVC pipe), and in my experience, are well worth the effort. As Don says, "No flash, no cash!" I have also had more than a few vendors ask where I got them from. Thanks again for the tip. SETH

When I saw David Walker's stand last weekend, I noticed that Brian wants people close, even on the sides. I'm thinking that Bill's stand would preclude that. Also David's stand has a slanted "table" top, maybe 3-5 degrees, lower in front. And it's higher than the table in Bill's stand. I'm wondering how you like it, Bill, as low as it is?

Since I also sell strippers from the same table, my table has 4 22" PVC extensions on the legs which raises it considerably. Have never measured distance to ground but it's perfect for the skirting that most shows use for taller tables. I've never tried it without the extensions but I'd think it would almost require my bending over to demo. To each his own, I guess. Hey, if it works for you!....

Jon

The idea of a slanted table is very good (why didn't I think of that?) It would enhance visibility for the folks further away, and probably help to draw and tighten up the tip, too.

In my experience, the best height for the table is whatever it needs to be so that you don't have to bend over to do the demo. My table comes up to about my belly betton, but I guess it depends on your height, how long your arms are, and how strong your back is!

The table I got from Sam's Club has three different adjustable heights on the legs, and the top one is just right for me. If you build your own pitch table from Don's plans, of course you can make it exactly right for you, too.

I don't mind people on my sides, but I probably prefer to have them in front of me, so I can see them and watch them better. I haven't had too many Svengali Decks walk off the table by themselves(!), but I have lost a couple that way. Now I keep the box of decks closer to me, and that also seems to help. After all, this is supposed to be a pitch joint, and it's NOT "self-service" !! SETH

Here's an additional photo of my pitch joint at night. I took this at the festival I was at this past weekend. I use 2 clip lights as Seth suggested in a previous post. My concern was light reflection on the Squirmle gimmick but that did not seem to be a problem. The lights were directed directly on the table and I do my Squirmle pitch from a foot or so behind the table.

http://s1033.photobucket.com/albums/a420......%20View/

Jon, the table height is 30", but the "topper" I use for the pitch raises that surface another foot to 42", which is a comfortable height for me even when standing on a stool. That would be probably about the same height as your table with the leg extensions.

I also like a little wider table, for the Squirmle pitch it puts a bit more distance between me and the tip, and in combination with a plaid shirt makes the gimmick virtually undetectable.

By the way, my table "topper" was actually made from a closet organizer designed to add extra shelves to a closet. I attached a white foam-board to cover the front and added laminated clip art and auto striping tape to dress it up. So from behind I have the extra shelf to work with which is great to keep my pitch stuff and money tray organized. Works out well for me!

I made my own tables prior to doing the cards. 2' x 4' piece of plywood and a folding leg set from Home Depot and some white Naugahyde type of covering from Cloth World. As you might imagine, I've replace the covering a few times in 18 years.

I understand about your "topper" but I prefer to have my entire working area up higher, so the really little kids can't reach the stuff. Especially really little kids not interested in the demo love to grab anything within reach while I'm doing my demo.

Since I'm using MMs clear plastic envelopes, which are pretty big, to hold the heavy "Svengali" card, the box of cards and the TCM, I've had no one attempt to "borrow" one.

By the way, Brian and David open every MM card box and collate the cards. And do not use the MM envelope or heavy card. I guess if you have plenty of time (and desire!) that's OK but I use Don's method--interlacing fingers together to show how to collate 'em. I can also point out the website on the back of the card so they can watch the tricks online. And, to me, the envelope looks very professional. Plus, I can use the bottom of the cellophane on the card box to hide the TCM cards, so they magically appear from an empty card box.

David feels the buyer HAS to be able to use the cards immediately, as they come from the box, without having to collate. I have to disagree to some extent. My feeling is if they are not collated, that is one more reason NOT to open the box. The advantage of having the cards already collated, (and they don't use the MM clear enveolpes) they can grab any box and demo it. So they sell the box they demo and have no dirty decks. Their instructions are different, too, tho I've never looked at 'em.

And Brian says when they run out of MM cards, they're going back to Loftus type. he's tired of collating. ;-)

Jon

Bill -- Very nice nighttime setup!

I was also worried about reflection from the worm gimmicks. But like you, I found that if you put the light in front of the worms instead of above or behind them, it cuts the reflection down quite a bit. Also, if you have the light coming in from the sides (as you do), so that the light runs along (parallel to) the gimmick instead of at right angles, that helps too. SETH

Nice joint Bill, really like the high over banner. As these always help pulling people in from a distance. Great idea.

One question Bill -- are you running your lighting from an AC line, a generator or batteries? It really looks great. SETH

I've been paying the extra bucks most festivals charge in this area for an AC connection. I use it for my small PA as well as the lights.

My PA does use regular batteries or a rechargeable battery that came with it, but those need to be changed at least 2 times during those long 11am to 11pm days. I'd just as soon pay the extra for the electric than have batteries die during a pitch, especially when I can use the power for the night lights.