|
|
Go to page [Previous] 1~2 | ||||||||||
George Ledo Magic Café Columnist SF Bay Area 3042 Posts |
Good article. Thanks for the link. The only issue I have with it is that it gives you step-by-step instructions on how to do something, but doesn't include photos or explain why you're doing each step. For instance, the part about scraping off the wax is good; the wax is a resist to keep paint off the surface, but you don't get a clue as to how much or what it wants to look like. This is one of those cases where you could follow the instructions to the letter and end up not liking the result, but not knowing why you don't like it.
That's our departed buddy Burt, aka The Great Burtini, doing his famous Cups and Mice routine
www.georgefledo.net Latest column: "Sorry about the photos in my posts here" |
|||||||||
pattyluker New user 1 Post |
You may want to try the products at Stoney Mountain Classic Castings. They carry a large Weathering Kit (18 Color) pigments and are introducing a new line in Stains. Go to http://www.shop.stoneymountaincc.com or check out the store front on Ebay.
|
|||||||||
Bob1Dog Inner circle Wife: It's me or this houseful of 1159 Posts |
Welcome aboard pattyluker. Interesting 1st post!
Actually, I'm restoring a old MAK French Wrist Chopper and didn't know where to post this. Thought I would try here. It's just old and rickety and the last time I tested it before a performance, one of the spacer shims fell off and rendered the trick useless so I axed it for the performance. I was actually going to throw it in the garbage because MAK doesn't make a quality chopper; at least this one isn't. My wife convinced me that I should look it over before trashing it, and I did. I took the whole thing apart, and found that all it really needed was some new glue and tightening up. However, in my test failure, the blade got stuck and jammed in the bottom, marring the surface pretty badly. I took some emery cloth and a file to the aluminum blade dings and realized I would have to put a lot of elbow work into re polishnig the blade, and the effect just isn't worth that much labor to me. So I thought, why not age the blade? Rough it up a bit and stain it somehow so that it gives the appearance of old blood stains on it. It is after all an old prop I purchased from someone for about $75 and I only used it twice. I introduce it as an old device anyway, that might be "well, a little rusty in some places." So aging the blade might add to the effect. Any ideas on how to make that blade look old, worn and bloody without the blood?
What if the Hokey Pokey really IS what it's all about?
My neighbor rang my doorbell at 2:30 a.m. this morning, can you believe that, 2:30 a.m.!? Lucky for him I was still up playing my drums. |
|||||||||
Son of a Beat New user Montréal, Canada 82 Posts |
SUN and RAIN.
Before building is even best. |
|||||||||
The Magic Cafe Forum Index » » The workshop » » Techniques for aging a prop (0 Likes) | ||||||||||
Go to page [Previous] 1~2 |
[ Top of Page ] |
All content & postings Copyright © 2001-2024 Steve Brooks. All Rights Reserved. This page was created in 0.01 seconds requiring 5 database queries. |
The views and comments expressed on The Magic Café are not necessarily those of The Magic Café, Steve Brooks, or Steve Brooks Magic. > Privacy Statement < |