Maybe the third cup means you don't have to keep track of which in the regular one.

There is no regular. Three Chop cups and four gimmick balls. The third cup is never used.
So it is a two chop cup routine, any way you look at it. You would also have to be very careful
not to have all three gimmick balls too close to each other or they would attach to each other or move funny.

This is why I use all rubber metal blended balls with no magnets in the balls, so the balls will not attach to another ball in a group of all gimmick metal balls.
The new chop cups set are also designed to only pick up one ball at a time no manner how many gimmick balls the cup is nested over or the chop cup can be
controlled to not pick up any gimmick balls. This could also be useful if you wanted to use different colored balls. As you are able to pick up the ball you want to pick up and leave the other balls.

I had bought a set of three, matching, conical cups of copper, with short stems from a merchant, for $5 each.

I first added a brass rim onto the cups to make them look more finished. Being spun cups, the stems were hollow. I filled the hollow stem with Goop glue (silicon), and suspended the 1/8" pill chops by a piece of wire coat hanger that had been wrapped around a large Allen wrench. The end of the wire was sanded flat to avoid tipping the chop. Using this method, all of the chops ended up at the same height, relative to the rim. Silicone will shrink back as it sets, so glue will have to be added before it fully sets to fully fill the stem and surround the chop, which is added after the final fill starts to set, keeping it from enveloping the chop. All of the poles are situated properly and marked prior to setting in glue. Once everything had fully set, I covered the silicone & chops with copper leaf to match the inside of the cups. The glue sets up in the shape of a dish, making it look like the finished interior of the cup, once it has been gilded.

The balls that I use are 1" cork, painted black, with 1/4" pill chops added so that the ball is mono-poled on both poles, inlaid via a Forstner bit & Goop glue (Epoxy works as well for this). The small balls, both chopped and not, are wrapped with red, leather lacing, into a monkey's fist knot, which increases the diameter of the ball to 1 1/4".

The only time that I have issues with <m> interference is if I try to put a ball upon the foot when there is still one clinging to the inside. The larger chop in the ball is the problem, creating a larger field and causing the exterior ball to roll. The distance from the actual bottom of the cup helps to insulate chop of exterior ball and cup from one another.

Once you figure the cost of the 1" & 2" cork balls, the lacing, the flocking (for the larger, load balls, glue) and chops, I probably have about $30 invested in my set. Easy to do, but not quick. The Goop requires drying overnight when the proper back filling has been reached in the cup.

Let's see if it will take the picture this time....

Click here to view attached image.

An update to the gimmicking of my cups:

Not all experiments work from the start. This was no exception. My final load started releasing when it was not supposed to do so. Upon investigation, I found that the chop in the cup in question had come partially unglued, the goop glue acting as a flexible hinge, allowing the load to slide off of the chop. Also, the hopping ball bit on the foot of the cup was an annoying issue. All was reduced to component parts to try again.

My solution was to bend a piece of coat hanger to wrap around a large allen wrench, forming a holding device. The end of the wire descended into the cup, holding the chop device on it's end. The base of the cup was then filled to the top edge of the chop with 2-part, clear acrylic resin. This locked the chop in place with the proper pole facing up. Liberal use of Sharpie metallic markers blended the acrylic and the chop with the rest of the cup's interior, once the acrylic had set. Because I raised the chop away from the base of the cup, this put enough distance between the chop and the ball on the foot of the cup to eliminate the ball "hopping" on the exterior of the foot. The only time that I suffer from this problem now, is if there is a ball clinging on the inside of the cup - the field becomes strong enough to override the distance. Otherwise they now act just like any other chopped cup. The only thing I have to keep track of now is the set of spheres, which are cork, mono-poled and covered in red leather lacing forming a monkey's fist. A fine-tipped Sharpie makes the identity of the balls apparent to me (one tiny black dot at the right place), but are too small to be noticed by an audience. When loading prior to a show, the theme from the Peter Paul Mounds/Almond Joy commercial comes to mind (sometimes you feel like a nut, sometimes you don't... <showing my age now...>), making reloading more entertaining for me.

It has been a challenge, but I think that most of the technical issues have now been addressed. We continue to move forward...

Love your creativity!