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The Magic Cafe Forum Index » » Deckless! » » Trouble buckling packets, and getting breaks in them (0 Likes) Printer Friendly Version

Bob G
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I have the hardest time getting a break from a small packet -- I find it much easier with a full deck. Does anyone have suggestions? Sometimes people suggest getting a buckle, but I haven't had much luck with that one either; can't seem to get the forces going in the right directions. With a small packet, there isn't much room to maneuver, and I have trouble controlling how many cards I'm getting a break under with a pinky pulldown. Same problem with a pinky count.


Thanks, folks!
stickmondoo
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If I need a break over one or two cards on the bottom of a small packet I always use a pinky pull down. If takes practice but the main thing to remember is that the small packet has to be bevelled to the left at the bottom. Use your pinky to bevel the bottom part of the packet. Without this bevel the move is impossible to do consistently. With the small bevel it becomes very easy with practice. Also if the routine allows it I like to do doubles and triples using the move Harry Lorayne made popular. The no get ready push off double lift.
Bob G
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Thanks, Stickmondoo. I have a feeling this is just what I need, but I'm having trouble visualizing the bevel. Is there a rotation to packet, or are you just moving the bottom cards straight to the left? I'm right-handed, so holding the cads in my left hand, and I'm imagining that if I wanted to get purchase on the bottom one or two cards, with my pinky, I'd need to move those cards to the *right*?
stickmondoo
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If you can find a description of the pinky count it is exactly that kind of bevel that you need. The only difference is the amount of cards. With such a small packet the bevel is hardly noticeable but it makes all the difference. Another tip if you want to be doing a pinky pull down on more than one card is that you need a very very light touch with the pinky. This allows you to count. The pinky is hardly touching the bottom card when it pulls it down. Just enough to move it.This allows you to get just one card. When you feel that card is on its way increase the pressure with your pinky very very very slightly to get the second. I rarely use this method for more than two cards but sometimes do it with three. Once you have the bevel and have done it 100 times your pinky gets sensitive and can get one or two whenever you need to. Good luck. It’s a very useful move if you like packet tricks. If you have skype I could show you?
Bob G
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Hi stickmondoo,



Thanks, all very helpful. I have a *pretty* good full-deck pinky count, based on Giobbi's description of the bevel (sort of a clockwise twisting as seen from above), so let me try applying the same bevel to a small packet. It sounds like you use that bevel also for the packet pinky pulldown? I'll need some work to get my pinky that sensitive! The amount of pressure to apply (again with full deck) is also an issue; I not uncommonly get more cards than I meant to and don't even know it till I look at the result.



Your offer to Skype is much appreciated. I'll try the ideas you wrote in this most recent post, and, if I still have trouble, I'll PM you about skyping. The skyping will be more valuable if I've done my homework first!



Bob
Bob G
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Stickmondoo,


I've PM'd you.
IncantoMagic
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Sometimes I will do a sort of backwards pinky count, from the bottom of the packet, where I will pull down a single card, and then, maintaining that break, contact the next card with the tip of my pinky and pull that down as well. You can do this to count maybe 3 card from the bottom, instead of doing a multiple buckle, or pinky counting down from the top of the packet
Bob G
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That makes sense, Incanto. So far that sort of thing hasn't worked for me because I can't tell how many cards I'm pulling down in the first place. -- Strange, because I do pretty well with the "forwards" pinky count, with a full deck at least. The thinness of packets seems to make everything harder. Still, I'll give it a try. Maybe I'll start with a full deck.
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