I agree on building your own. The 2 Table books from Magic Inc. offer great plans and are easily constructed. By building it yourself you can custumize it to your needs, cover it to suit your purposes and save a bundle of money in the process.

Martin

It is worth it if you make your own.

After buying it from a shop, plus shipping, you will be out a lot of cash.

If you decide to make yor own, be prepared for a lot of time and work. Plywood is tough to paint and/or cover with cloth if you want a professional looking job. Painting is a slow process because of the priming, drying...(flip it over) * priming, drying... sanding***priming, drying...(flip it over) * priming, drying...sanding,***priming, drying...(flip it over) * priming, drying...sanding***well, you get the picture. And you're not even started with the top coat paint yet! You will have to be patient and invest some money in the project too.
I am in the process of making some tables now. I did not like my Eureka's very well. They are made "cheaply" IMO. The cloth top is striped with ribbons in a grid pattern and it is glued on crooked. There's no easy fix since it would mess it up the cloth to remove and re-glue it. The base will not stay up in a locked position and it is wobbly. Anyway, I wanted to replace them, but I could not find anything that suited me. I found some with rollers that I liked but they are not very portable, and they're very expensive, so I decided to make some myself. I require tables that are portable and I wanted them to be sturdy and durable. I didn't want a long drape hanging down, because I believe it sometimes raises suspicion from the audience, and can give them a false, simplified explanation as to how some things are done. I also wanted tables that looked professional. I am using the best plywood available for the top and I found some nice, sturdy but lightweight mic stands for the bases. I am painting the tops black.

I would have probably come out better to have bought some, considering the time and work involved, if there were some suitable ones available. I just couldn't find any that worked for me. I hope they turn out well. I may sell a couple of them if turn out to be top quality.

Regan

I forgot to mention this, but the microphone stand needs some pretty major modifications also. It has to be cut down unless you want a really tall table. Not easy to do with the one I'm using either. It's a lot of work but I can't wait to see my finished product.

Regan

Thanks again everyone.

I just finished my tables yesterday and I am really pleased with them. They turned out great and should be a wonderful improvement to my stage show. I have a series of shows coming up next week so I'll put them to the true test when I transport some of them and use them on stage.

Regan

For some strange reason I have made several tables of simple design that the guys in this area like quit well. They break down into three pieces that esily stored in the average trunk and can be sized to fit. Im a short guy so even a eureka table at its lowest setting is almost too high for me. a table on a mic stand puts the props a face hight to me. so dimensions of table should be suited to you.
I now after years have a collection of various tables and trays that I use on stage.
anther hint is that 3M company makes a great spray adhesive that makes putting felt down over plywood a breeze.
Minnesota fabric sells great fringe as does Rose Brand theatrical suppliers. Rose will send you swatches for free if you call and ask.
remember prime, dry, sand, curse under your breath, prime, dry, sand, its worth the effort.

I agree blutrol. My finish turned out nice. It took a lot of effort and patience but it was worth it. My Eureka's would only remain at the lowest setting so I had gotten used to using a low table. The mic stands were too high for me also. I had to get them modified and I am really pleased. The top doesn't wobble like my Eureka's did. I can also spin the tops if I want and they are smooth and sturdy. The paint I used matches the color of the black mic stands almost exactly. I made a few extra tops and I'm going to cover some of them in cloth and fringe. I may make 1 or 2 black art tops. I have used the 3M Fabric spray glue and it is great. I just used that glue when I lined the inside of a trunk with padding to transport my table tops in.

I may check out the fabric sources you mentioned. Do they have a website? Do you know of a good place to get "Triple" velvet. I have heard that you could get it with an adhesive backing. I was wondering if anyone had used it before and if it worked well. I'll bet the self adhesive stuff would be easier to work if it would stick right and hold to the surface strongly enough.

Regan

For Tops... Home Depot has a 8mm (or approx 3/8"... where did my metric lessons go?) ply wood that is very stable (flater than 1/4") and lighter than 1/2" material. It has a very nice finish too.

M. Ammar has a great idea of making a table top out of a wooden picture frame and cutting a closeup pad to fit in it. While he uses three legs that screw into plywood glued on to the frame, I use a radio shack microphone stand (much lighter than the peavey brand). What I am looking for, is a microphone flange that is much wider than the standard 2 1/2 inch. Anyone know of one out there?
David

Where can I get sheets of Plexi-glass? I found the stand I want at Ronjo.com

But Instead of the normal wooden table top with felt. I want to cut a piece of thick Plexi-glass out and use that as the table top. It would be perfect for the card through glass table top, or coin through table.

I would be interested in the plexiglass too.
I wonder how thick you would need it to be?
How would you attach a flange to plexiglass?
Would you have to drill all the way through?

Regan

You can by Plexi-Glass at Home Depot in a variety of sizes and thicknesses and they will cut it to size for you. I believe the first cut is free. They also sell a simple tool that allows you to score and break the Plexi-Glass yourself without much hassle.

Joe

As far as flanges go, I went to a friend of mine who is a machinist. I drew the plan for what I wanted and he made four up for me.
Basically it's a square of 1/2" thick steel stock (which I painted black) with a centered threaded hole and 4 holes to attach my top which is made out of medium density fiberboard.

peace,
phill

I make my own

God Bless You, I Love You From The Bottom Of My Heart