Can anyone recommend a "ready-made" attractive Table Top that I can purchase for a Eureka Table Base I already have?

I was thinking about purchasing two such tops, one for stage work(about 14" x 20") and another one for close-up/strolling which could fit inside a briefcase. A quick-release table top would be ideal.

Thanks a bunch!
Ray (naturalturn)

http://www.raywongmagic.com

Hi Ray,

I have the Tricky Table Top from The Magic Warehouse and have been very pleased with it. It looks very good and has 2 spring loaded trap door that open by touch.

Joe

I saw a great one in Magictopia Kilburn:
Click here!

Sorry Jon, could you please check and see if that 'link' is correct. I also did a google search and there's no such thing as 'Magictopia Kilburn' either.

Thanks a lot!

Ray

It may be a little late for this response but I use an aluminum case (from Home Depot). I rigged it to fit on the falange-it works great.

Thanks for the suggestion Isramagia!

Another magician I know in town rigged a case on top of his base and it seems to work well for him.

I may do this as well, or have a custom-made tabletop made for me as (IMHO)I feel it would look that much more professional.

Cheers,
Ray

One economical solution, that does require a small amount of work, is to buy a wooden cutting board and cover it with felt or paint it. I use it and it works great. I wrapped a loop of elastic around it so that I can do card effects when there is a breeze. I just slip the cards under the elastic.

Hmm, good idea as this has been a problem when I've done shows with my 'banjo table'(collectors workshop) when it was a bit windy.

In addition, I'll consider a rectangular table top for my base, instead of a round table top, so that I can utilize the elastic idea easier. Thanks again Alan!

Ray

Do all of the Eureka tripod bases raise to 50 inches?
Are they pretty durable and steady at the max height?

I've been looking for one and the top because I need height for my square circle.

Thanks

c

I sent you a PM. Perhaps check with a dealer as I am not sure.

Regards,
Ray

Thanks Ray, I got mine in and although the flange is a bit wobbly, Im liking it still. I may use JB Weld on the female piece that attaches to the actual tripod to make it more steady and permanent since this piece stays on the pole anyways.

One thing is I used round head screws to bolt in the flange and the surface of the table is not level (screw heads make it raised). I am thinking of trying flat head screws to see if it will not have the four humps on top.

Maybe everyone who covers it with felt doesn't have this problem?

I had the same wobbly problem and tolorated it for a long time. I finally put a couple screws in the connection and it made a world of difference.

Candini,

Thanks for your thoughts. A friend built me a very nice 11" x 14 1/2" top for my Eureka base. The actual wood he used for the top was only 1/4" thick and already had a thin sheet of hard black plastic laminate on one side (for the surface of the top) which eliminated the need to cover it with felt.

In addition, he then framed the 4 edges of the top with a 5/8" thick framing-type of wood making sure the top would have a 1/8" lip (so sponge balls, cards, or other props won't easily fall off the top). He then fastened a small 3/8" thick piece of wood to the bottom before screwing the flange to it.

It fits perfectly in my magic case and is extremely light. My only concern is, during kid shows, some kids may want to lean on it not knowing that this type of table top is not meant to support their entire weight. I'll see how it holds up.

I also recently ordered Malloy's Pro rolling table for bigger stage shows.

Regards,
Ray

My table tops are homemade from very good 1/2" plywood. I use 1/2" water pipe flange mounted under the table top with flat head wood screws. I paint them to make them harder to loosen. This set is 23 years old and I used them on stage Saturday. There is no wobble! I haven't been kind to them yet. They can rally take it. (I don't have any Eureka bases less than 25 years old!)

The problem I have seen others have was not with the top, but the adapter from the stand post to the pipe thread. Clear silicone weather adhesive should do the trick there. Other methods not only break or get loose, but also cause the chrome plate to discolor and chip.

Enjoy!

Bob
Magic By Sander