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The Magic Cafe Forum Index » » Polly wants a cracker... » » Vanishing dove cage (0 Likes) Printer Friendly Version

james_magic
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Australia
124 Posts

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I was just wondering what everyone else puts in their vanishing dove cage cloth? Do you use slates or dowel? Or do you use something else? Do you have it the exact width of the cage top? I've had trouble trying to 'vanish' my cage and maintain the shape. What I mean is mine is a roller cage and by lifting it up a bit it 'vanishes'. I'm struggling to work out good finger positions for holding the ..... in the cloth, and lifting it up. Any help. Thanks in advance.

James
DaveWomach
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Dave Womach
452 Posts

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Hi James,

Who made your cage?

My cloth is slightly larger than the cage top. It's 1/2 inch wooden dowels.

Hope that helps.

Dave
sperris
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http://www.Anti-Conjuror.com
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Yeah wooden dowels, have your cloth sewn so the dowels can be removed so the cloth can be cleaned...ummmm yeah so didn't your cage even come with a cloth? Strange. I grip the dowels with my thumb and first finger and use my ring finger to "release" it.
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Bob Sanders
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Grammar Supervisor
Magic Valley Ranch, Clanton, Alabama
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James,

In mine the dowels have been replaced with pieces of wood trim called "Shoe mold". It is like quarter round except that it has a 1/2" side and a 3/4" side. The rounded side is on the top outside. The 3/4" side is flat on the cage and the cloth sticks up about 1/2". This way when I grab it, I can tell immediatly that I have it right or wrong before I lift the cage. I waste no time standing over the cage looking like I'm doing something fishy.

It works well for me.

Bob
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RJE
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Inner circle
1848 Posts

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Mine also uses wooden dowels and I operate in the same method that Sperris describes. What are you using for the cloth? Mine has a thick black underside with stitching that helps maintain its shape. The outside is a glittering gold that helps confuse the eye. The only slight problem is a "sucking in" of the cloth if I try and lift it too soon before the "secret stuff" is done. Otherwise, it works fine.
Bob Sanders
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Magic Valley Ranch, Clanton, Alabama
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Quote:
On 2004-11-30 11:00, RJE wrote:
Mine also uses wooden dowels and I operate in the same method that Sperris describes. What are you using for the cloth? ...

The only slight problem is a "sucking in" of the cloth if I try and lift it too soon before the "secret stuff" is done.


The "sucking in" is caused by the cloth being totally flat on the top of the cage. The air that gets in due to the difference in the molding used solves that problem. The gap is there before the cloth is unfolded over the back and front of the cage.

I "flip" the end covers off first. That gives enough weight to lift the cloth about 1/2" off the cage top but look perfectly flat. It also gives the appearance of being the same thickness as the cage top. Someone else has pointed out how to use your ring finger. Slightly (very slightly) tipping the cloth towards the audience will also cover using the ring finger.

It's a great prop I use about two shows a week. I don't use it where the audience can look down on the "empty" table top.

Bob
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james_magic
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Regular user
Australia
124 Posts

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Thanks heaps guys. I've been toying around with the method of using the thumb and forefinger to lift the cloth, etc... and it is going along nicely. Thanks!

James
Bob Sanders
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Magic Valley Ranch, Clanton, Alabama
20495 Posts

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I have a friend from Downunder who uses romex cable. The weight is good, it doesn't "talk" and it is easier to pack because it will bend.

I'm not that brave.

Bob
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Nick Wait
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Inner circle
Lichfield, UK
1042 Posts

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What cage are you using Bob? It sounds like a Norm Nielson.
Nick
Bob Sanders
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Grammar Supervisor
Magic Valley Ranch, Clanton, Alabama
20495 Posts

Profile of Bob Sanders
Quote:
On 2005-02-26 13:04, walsall wrote:
What cage are you using Bob? It sounds like a Norm Nielson.
Nick


I think the Norm Nielson is a great product and it comes with its own case. (They all need cases.) I must also admit that I have not "played with" the latest ProLine. Many of the guys are using them now. I'm down to one cage that still works. I don't recommend that for a pro. Have a backup cage. If something can go wrong, it will. If nothing else you can't be two places at once and sooner or later you will arrive and your props won't.

For a hobbyist, a Norm Nielson is pricey. For a pro, a cage that "nearly" worked is also pricey.

The common problem of many of these cages is that the tops don't hit the "hole" 100% of the time and that leaves two corners sticking up at best. Therefore, I don't recommend any of them by mail if you can go to the vendor and test it for yourself. My observation is that they are much like automobiles and each needs testing. A good one is a good one. Problems don't cure themselves.

It's shopping time again for me too. It is a great trick! I know it has been a standard closer for some of us for over forty years. (Sometimes I wish I had a good way to hide them from the rest of the world so I wouldn't have to share! Audiences love it!)

I've never been ashamed of money spent on Norm Nielson equipment. I know that you can easily get twenty-five years of hard work out of one.

If you buy a used one, look out for warped tops. They will get twisted from improper set up or storage. It doesn’t go away. (No casters are better than poor casters.)

I would enjoy hearing from manufacturers privately or on The Café about what is available and how the old problems might have been solved. It’s time this old guy shopped again too.

What have the rest of you found out there?

Good Luck!

Bob
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Bob Sanders

Magic By Sander / The Amazed Wiz

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